Photo by Nikoo’s Photos

By DCist contributor Emily Fisher

February is the local food doldrums. The farmers’ markets are pretty bleak unless you love turnips and bitter greens, which are fine and all, but can’t compare to a juicy heirloom tomato or a pint of local blackberries. This month is also the time when all you D.C. food nerds start dreaming of the peaches and corn that you’ll carry home from your summer CSAs. It’s time to sign up, and here’s how it works:

What is a CSA?

A CSA, or community supported agriculture, is a program whereby you pay a membership fee to get a box of fresh produce each week from a nearby farmer. Most CSAs run from mid-May to mid-November, and plenty offer different perks — one could produce honey, another could allow you to press your own cider once apple season hits. Cost-wise, it depends on the farm and the size of your share, but you can plan on paying between $400 and $600 for a season.

Where can I get one?

>> Clagett Farm: Located in Upper Marlboro and connected to the Chesapeake Bay Foundation, Clagett Farm has been in the CSA business for a while — and as a consequence it takes a mix of persistence and chance to score a membership. If you don’t get one, they offer a workshare, where you show up at the farm and pick what you take home.

>> Earth Spring Farm: In addition to produce, CSA members can add fruit as well as meat, eggs and cheeses. (Bonus: they also offer different lacto-fermented pickled vegetables throughout the year. And if you sign up before March 15 you get a free box of produce.)

>> Bull Run Mountain Farm: One of the oldest continually operating CSAs in the D.C. area. All-organic and located in the Bull Run Mountains near Haymarket, Virginia, the farm even invites members to visit and do some of their own picking. (Bonus: their website has a ton of recipes for newbies.)

>> Evensong Farm: For the bird lovers, this CSA provides just eggs and chickens. (Bonus, according to their site: “Studies show that pasture-raised eggs are higher in beta carotene, folic acid, vitamin B-12 and Omega 3s, and much, much lower in fat and cholesterol than those from conventionally confined birds. And, our ladies are happier too.”)

>> Smucker Farms of Lancaster Co.: This new retail spot on 14th Street is also offering a CSA. Participants will receive a half-bushel of produce from the cooperative of farmers known as Oasis at Bird-in-Hand.

>> North Mountain Pastures: Not so much a mesclun eater as a meat eater? Choose between shares of chicken, pork, beef and lamb. (Bonus: Um, bacon.)

This is but a small sampling of what’s available — Local Harvest has a comprehensive list that’s worth perusing. Metrocurean also listed its favorites here, and the Post has its list here.

Why should you do it?

>> You get fresh, local produce, meat and dairy, plus the opportunity to get to know and support the people growing your food.

>> If you’re really busy on the weekends, it means you don’t have to throw elbows at the farmers’ market in order to get the good stuff.

>> You get to feel that twinge of superiority during your dinner parties because, yes, “This entire meal came from my CSA.”

Why should you maybe not do it?

>> Not to stress you out, but this will require some work. You typically get enough produce to feed a family of four, so either be ready to cook most nights or split your membership with a friend or two. Some farms also offer half-shares.

>> You won’t get avocadoes. Or citrus, or anything else that doesn’t grow around here. And sometimes the tomatoes get late blight or the bears get to the cherries before the farmers. So just roll with the produce punches, guys, and maybe you’ll learn how to cook a rutabaga for once in your life.

>> As a corollary, you’ll get lots of a few things, depending on the season. Hate bitter greens? Tough luck. Most early-season deliveries include enough kale to overwhelm even the most fervent lover of the bitter green, and at some point during the summer you’ll be overrun with peaches. The upside is that you’re forced to become more creative with your cooking.

>> If you’re supremely broke and/or prefer to buy your produce at Giant.

If you’re interested, get on it, because shares sell out fast. And if you’re already a member of a CSA, which one? Let us know in the comments.