Even the ceviches benefit from a searing kiss from the grill at Del Campo, Victor Albisu’s new restaurant which he opened last week in the Chinatown space that formerly housed PS7’s. Salmon arrived just barely grilled, with its remaning rawness accented by crispy pork rinds. Seared, burnt, charred, and other fiery adjectives appear throughout Albisu’s South American menu. Cheese is charbroiled. Several of the drinks require fire—juice from grilled lemons, grapefruits, and limes and an applewood smoked simple syrup.

At an opening party Monday night, a server carving up cuts of a prime bone-in short rib explained that just about the only things at Del Campo without a little bit of char are the meats. Albisu, running his first restaurant after heading the kitchen at BLT Steak, serves a handful of fish and seafood entrees, some sandwiches, a Peruvian chicken, and ñoquis. (Yes, that last one would be gnocchi in an Italy, not Argentina.)

But Albisu’s menu is largely about asado, applewood smoked meats served a la carte. Well, a la carte plus a complementary cross-cut of bone marrow to bolster the decadence. And a tray of smoky herbs underneath the serving board lends a final whiff of campfire to your table.

Albisu composed his enticing menu drawing inspiration from the food of an estancia, a large South American vineyard estate. He also drew inspiration from his Latin American heritage and tasting trips to Argentina, Chile, Peru, and Uruguay. Along with Del Campo, he is opening a casual taqueria, Taco Bamba, later this spring in Falls Church. He took over the Logan Circle restaurant Black Jack last year for a taco test run.

Del Campo is located at 777 I Street NW; (202) 289-7377.