You could spend a long while reading up on the legend of Peter Chang.
He’s become known by diners as much for his mysterious penchant for moving around and seemingly seeking peace and anonymity in the kitchen, as his masterful take on Chinese food. Chang was “discovered” by Washington area diners after he left a chef job at the Embassy of China to cook at small suburban restaurants located in Fairfax and Alexandria-area strip malls. Then he left the area to do more of the same at a restaurant in Marietta, Ga.
When I found myself there on business, I stopped by for a taste of the legendary cooking. “He left long ago,” says the owner of Tasty China, the restaurant that Chang left the D.C. area to go cook at in the mid-aughts. “That man cannot stay put. Gotta move around,” she says. In his wake, he left a thrilling menu behind, and thus it was my introduction to the world of Chang and his elevated brand of Sichuan cooking.
But now, Chang has stepped out of the shadows. Two official websites tell the story of the famed Szechuan chef, and how he “disappeared and left restaurants, inspiring a group of fans to follow his movement in Internet discussion boards.” The man who seemingly had run away from glowing reviews and adoring diners now links to articles about himself, like food critic Todd Kliman’s obsession with Chang that led him to seek out his cooking on road trips across several state lines, or a New Yorker article that tells the story of his groupies—‘Changians‘.
Chang’s legendary resume continues to grow, now that he’s operating his own restaurants these days. His chain, Peter Chang China Café, has several outposts outside of Richmond, Fredericksburg, Williamsburg In Charlottesville his restaurant is called Peter Chang China Grill. He most recently opened Peter Chang Virginia Beach. It’s deliberate branding for a man that, for many years, seemingly avoided being a brand. But for Chang, the spotlight doesn’t seem to be an issue, at least not anymore. There’s even a possible documentary film project that about his nomadic existence in the works that suggests the man is finally happy for his name to be out there.
On Monday, Chang made a rare public appearance in D.C., cooking with The Source’s Scott Drewno at his Newseum restaurant, prepping dishes suitable for the upcoming Chinese New Year. Attendees included a bevy of local chefs, Chang’s entourage, celebrity chefs Joan Nathan and Alice Waters, and other savvy party-goers. The night before, Drewno and Chang cooked together at one of the swanky Sips and Suppers charity dinners. The price for a plate? A mere $600 (but hey, it’s for charity!).
Drewno and Chang’s friendship dates back a few years, when Drewno drove down to Chang’s Charlottesville restaurant to see what the fuss was about firsthand. “We just started doing some dinners together,” Drewno says. “We did a charity dinner in Richmond. I did lacquered duck and I think he was like ‘alright, this guy can cook.’ I had to bring the big guns.” This led to Drewno and Chang cooking together at various charity dinners, including the James Beard Foundation.
During this latest cooking round, Drewno lorded over a whole roasted pig, assembling its chopped meat into bao buns. Chang worked the fryers in the lounge’s rear kitchen, sending servers out with trays of spicy pork belly, fried lotus root, and cilantro fish rolls, rarely stepping out of the kitchen to greet diners and pose for quick pictures. He is jovial, youthful, and quick to smile; not at all the picture of a grim toque I had created in my head from articles and speculation. He’s busy yet at completely at ease and joyous in his work.
“What I know of him is he’s a very talented chef who is a very nice person,” Drewno explains. “He’s very free with his knowledge and shows me how to do things. My biggest food passion is certainly Chinese food and he’s someone that I look up to and want to emulate in certain ways. It’s a treat to be able to work with him.”
I spent the evening hoping to talk to him but remained respectful of his privacy. He’s not a guy who wants a camera in his face while creating his dishes. But when he finally left the kitchen for the evening, he was glad to shake the hands of those who would pay tribute to him. Chang expresses genuine humbleness at the praise thrown his way. “I am honored,” he says with the help of his daughter Lydia serving as translator when I tell him how reading about him is what got me fixated on Sichuan cuisine.
“Was it spicy for you?” he asks me. Earlier in the evening, he and Drewno wondered whether he should tone the spice down a little. When I tell him I could’ve handle more, he invites me to visit him at one of his Virginia restaurants. “Fredericksburg is closest. Give advance notice,” he offers, “and I’ll be there.” He seems to mean it.
Chang’s guest turn at The Source was the kick-off to several weeks worth of events at the restaurant. This Friday, a family style banquet menu will be served to groups for the first official night of the Chinese New Year. On Saturday, Drewno will teach a dumpling making class followed by a dumpling dim sum brunch. And on February 10th, the dining room of The Source will be transformed into a street food market. Guests will visit ‘stalls’ for delicacies like crescent-shaped dumplings, noodles, and skewers, followed by a seated dinner.
After the Chinese New Years celebrations, I’ll certainly be making plans to visit Chang in Virginia.
