By DCist Contributor Nathan Wilkinson
One of the benefits of living in a diverse city is the variety of ethnic restaurants and their ability to combine international liquors into one-of-a-kind concoctions. I’ve been getting so many requests to cover peoples’ favorites that I’ve returned to a few restaurants to talk about what they’re mixing with now.
At Barcelona (1622 14th Street NW) I talked with bartender Zach Drehoff about two popular bourbon drinks with international flair. “We are a heavily Spanish-influenced restaurant in terms of our menu,” he says. “Our wine list is between 80 and 90 percent Spanish wine, but our cocktail list is more imaginative and allows us to break free of those constraints.”
The Bourbon Spice Rack is exactly what it sounds like. With Four Roses bourbon, Doc’s maple syrup, lemon juice and Scrumppy’s lavender and cardamom bitters, the drink is subtler than adding spice to bourbon. “This one’s floral and spice forward,” says Drehoff, “complex and sippable.”
Their other popular drink is the Whiskey Root with Buffalo Trace, Byrrh Quinquina, fresh ginger, lemon juice, and a basil leaf garnish. The drink’s name is fitting: Whiskey Root tastes more herbal and dark, with a nose you might experience buying ginger root at an outdoor market.
You might not know that D.C.’s east side is home to a restaurant with the largest selections of rakia outside of Eastern Europe; then again, you might not know what rakia is. Ambar (23 8th Street SE), a Balkan “small plate” eatery is doing some new things with a very old spirit. Rakia is an un-aged hard liquor that’s distilled from grapes, not grain. It has its own unique flavor like grappa, but Eastern Europeans enjoy infusing it with fruit.
“It is the national spirit of seven countries,” says proprietor Ivan Iricanin. “Families that make their own plum rakia, similar to slivovitz, are very proud of it.” Iricanin is rolling out a rakia tasting challenge to encourage guests to try all 33 varieties, including pear, quince, raspberry, strawberry, and honey. Order tasting flights or pours and get your passport stamped to earn free shots and a chance to win your own bottle.
But rakia is also an outstanding mixer in a cocktail. Try the Skoplje; named after the capital of Macedonia, it’s an East-meets-Southwest cocktail that’s better than any Margarita. Made with pear rakia, spiced pear puree, mescal, and sour mix, it has a smoky center with plenty of fruity body to keep you interested. Their Strawberry Collins is another take on a classic—strawberry-infused grappa, lemon juice, simple syrup and champagne. It’s light and sweet on the surface, but you notice the grappa like a dry cordial underneath.
Vodka has been on the wane since the classic cocktail movement took off. That’s mostly because no one in the U.S. drank vodka in the early 20th century. But vodka serves an important purpose in drinks, especially when you are trying to feature flavorful ingredients. It doesn’t bury the flavors and it doesn’t dilute strong drinks like juices will. At The Bombay Club (815 Connecticut Avenue NW) vodka becomes the main flavor in the Mirichini. It’s made with chipotle chili-infused vodka, mango schnapps, and mango puree. It looks at first like a mango lassi with a kick, but you notice a smoky burn mid-sip that gets your attention. Pair this with a spicy duck kebab appetizer and you have a real treat.
Absolut Mandarin vodka is the base of The Bubbles, a dry and fruity champagne cocktail at the back of the massive beer list at B Too (324 14th Street NW). Served in a cocktail glass, The Bubbles is a twist on an Elder Kir, with St. Germain elderflower flavor balanced by sparkling wine and orange vodka.
I’ve picked The Diplomat as my home bartending international cocktail. You should have most of these ingredients even if you have only a small bar.
- 2 oz. dry vermouth
- 1/2 oz. sweet vermouth
- 1/2 tsp. maraschino liqueur
- 3 dashes of Angostura bitters
- Lemon slice
- Cherry
Combine all ingredients except fruit in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with cherry and lemon wheel.