By DCist Contributor Nathan Wilkinson

Good bartenders have many qualities. They thrive in the high-energy and cramped environs of the bar room. Behind the bar it’s as if they’re always on stage, a bit like a master of ceremonies at times, and a sort of master craftsman of libations at others. And more and more, bartenders need to know their history when it comes to classic cocktails.

The revival of classic cocktails has really become a movement: not as a response to any one particular demand, but from the passionate interest that mixers and drinkers have for the art of craft cocktails. And mixing in itself has become an art form of sorts. It’s not surprising that the cocktail, a modern concept of combining liquors, wines, and juices, like painting with flavors on the palate, came about at the turn of the last century in urban centers with the rise of arts and intellectualism. Back then a good bartender had the social clout of an elected official or local celebrity, well-versed in politics, sports, and the latest drink recipes from New Orleans, Paris, and New York.

While bartending has since been viewed as a temporary job for students or part-timers looking for a way to make quick cash, the resurgence of classic cocktails in major cities is elevating the position to the level of respect held by the movement’s forerunners—those imaginative bartenders who invented the most famous cocktails like the Old Fashioned, the Negroni, and the Aviation. Now skilled bartenders use these old standards as the inspiration for new drinks.

Take Christine Kim, lead bartender at Tico (1926 14th Street NW) and creator of the Word Of Mouth. Her drink is a twist on the classic gin cocktail, The Last Word; but, since Tico is known for it’s incredible selection of tequilas and mezcals, Kim substituted tequila and added vanilla bean syrup to create something both new and familiar.

“People are curious about tequila and mezcal cocktails,“ says Kim, “and I find that agave plays really well with Chartreuse. One thinks of tequila as good only for shots, but it’s a whole liquor category unto itself with different regions (lowland and highland) and different aging and distilling techniques. So a cocktail that introduces people to a classic and gets them to reconsider tequila is really killing two birds with one stone.”

The Word Of Mouth has all the addictive qualities of its predecessor, with mouth-puckering citrus and herb flavors on the surface and bitter almond notes from the liqueurs. “I thought that using vanilla syrup would soften the flavor profile and keep the maraschino liquor from fighting with the Chartreuse and tequila,” says Kim.

And it does, but the tequila flavors still shine through in this masterpiece. Tico also features three excellent drinks on tap: a brilliant pink Hibiscus Margarita, a spicy pisco drink with chile pepper and lime called Papa Made Bail, and a Rosé Sangria made with pisco and passion fruit tea.

Kim notices that guests are asking the bar staff for classic cocktails. “We have regulars who geek out about the nuances of Cocchi and Dolin vermouths, and the customers’ interest in classic cocktails has been great for the scene.”

The scene, whether it’s 14th Street or Dupont Circle, has always been about fresh, local ingredients. “People come in for fresh squeezed juice; people want authentic things; they don’t want artificial,” says Kim.

And, of course, they come in for the bartender—that knowledgeable and friendly person who’s at home in a crowd. But don’t call her a mixologist. Kim says, “It’s become a loaded word lately: someone with a kitschy personality. It neglects the hospitality component of what we do, which I think is the most important thing. At Tico, we are all bartenders.”

Lately classic cocktail acolytes have been using Canadian whiskey, just like the like speakeasy bartenders did during prohibition, as a substitute for rye. Here’s a recipe for Trois Rivières:

• 2 oz. Canadian whiskey
• 1/2 oz. Dubonnet Rouge
• Cointreau
• Orange twist

Combine all ingredients except twist in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with the orange twist.