Kabocha squash gnudi at Nopa (Alicia Mazzara).
Dish of the Week: Gnudi
Behold the humble gnudi, gnocchi’s elusive, long-lost cousin. Aside from being rather titillating to say (it’s pronounced “nu-dee”), gnudi are a serious party for your mouth: This rustic Italian dish is somewhere between a dumpling and a molten ball of cheese. Think of it like a ravioli that’s almost all filling—a naked ravioli, if you will.
In the classic Italian tradition, gnudi are all about elevating a few very simple, high-quality ingredients. At their most basic, gnudi are seasoned balls of ricotta rolled in semolina flour and left overnight to dry out. This process creates a thin pasta shell that keeps the cheese together when cooked in a pot of boiling water. The final result are tender, pillowy dumplings filled with creamy, melty cheese.
Patient cooks can make gnudi at home, but there are also some excellent restaurant versions to be had. The kabocha squash gnudi at Nopa (800 F St NW) is a symphony of comforting winter flavors: earthy sage and mushrooms, nutty chestnuts and brown butter, all tied together with a spicy, warming hit of ras el hanout, an African spice blend. The sweet-savory squash dumplings were a stand-out at a recent media dinner, perfectly plump and tender.
For something more carnivorous, Range (5335 Wisconsin Ave NW) also offers their take on gnudi. The dish swaps ricotta for the sharper flavored goat cheese and serves the balls alongside a rich beef and pork ragu, ideal for a hearty winter meal.
Small Bites
Double your cheese, double your fun
Speaking of cheese-based dishes, D.C. diners now have two new opportunities to consume copious amounts of melted cheese. This week The Garrison (524 8th St SE) launched an Alpine fondue special, available at the bar Tuesdays through Thursdays. And Blue Duck Tavern (1201 24th St NW) is starting raclette service in their lounge tonight. Raclette, for the uninitiated, is kind of like a reverse fondue: Rather than dipping, cheese is melted over the food—typically boiled potatoes, cured meats, and bread. Both cheese specials are $18 per serving.
Keep calm and drink on
Meteorologists are predicting our impending snowy doom, which can only mean two things: ransacked grocery stories and food and drink specials up the wazoo. From early happy hours to a Star Wars-themed snow bar, keep tabs on specials and closures here and here.
Eatonville goes to the… mules?
Eatonville (2121 14th St NW) has closed and is in the process of being transformed into a new concept called Mulebone. Like Eatonville, the name is a nod to Harlem Renaissance writer Zora Neale Hurston (Mulebone is a play she wrote with Langston Hughes). The menu will also focus on southern fare, like Carolina shrimp and sweet potato pie, and the cocktail program will be heavy on the bourbon. Mulebone will follow the integrated restaurant-meets-retail model employed at Busboys and Poets, featuring an antique store in the entry area. Mulebone is scheduled to open on February 12.
Warm up with a cooking class
It’s no gnudi, but you can learn how to make gnocchi and ragu at Casa Luca (1099 New York Ave NW) on January 30 from 3-4:30 p.m. Students will learn how to make smoked potato gnocchi with a Ventian white pork ragu sauce. Light snacks, wine, and a plate of gnocchi are included in the $85 ticket.
