Georgetown’s dining scene is propelled by tourists and painfully lacking in quality restaurants and hangouts. But the neighborhood got quite the gift recently with the opening of The Sovereign, a Belgian beer bar and restaurant from the minds behind many city favorites, including Bluejacket, ChurchKey, and The Partisan. DCist was recently invited to take a peek at the highly anticipated space and menu.
Sheltered at the end of an alley near the bustling corner of Wisconsin Avenue and M Street NW, The Sovereign will offer expertly-curated Belgian beers and traditional cuisine in an atmosphere that evokes something between a rustic European hunting lodge and an old-school cigar lounge. There’s an upstairs bar that will be first-come seating and a downstairs bar and dining room that will accept reservations.
Beer Director Greg Engert’s list covers some 50 drafts in a variety of styles and flavor profiles from craft brewers in Belgium, as well as U.S. breweries dedicated to the classic Belgian way of brewing. An important note: The bar is shying away from the usual suspects of the Belgian beer world. There’s no Chimay, Hoegaarden, or Delirium on tap here. Instead, expect to see smaller and harder-to-find brands like De Ranke, Dupont, and Thiriez.
It’s a little pretentious, sure. But all levels of beer drinkers will take pleasure browsing the list of unusual choices instead of deliberating over same old things. Those bemoaning the lack of familiarity or intimidated by all the choices will appreciate that the beers are organized by flavor profile, and each has helpful tasting notes to guide patrons.
And while it’s fair to say that drinking at The Sovereign won’t be as cheap as your favorite dive bar, it won’t necessarily break the bank either. Draft beers come in half and whole pours, and plenty of satisfying glasses can be found in the $6 to $8 range. There are certainly more expensive ones as well, and rare bottles can run around $50.
Most people won’t last very long drinking beer without some food, and The Sovereign has a full kitchen with dishes you’d expect to see at a Belgian restaurant as well as some interesting twists. Executive Chef Peter Smith’s menu is extensive, featuring everything from burgers to beer-braised rabbit and flatbreads. Most main dishes run in the mid-$20s, so a full meal will add up, especially with all the beer likely to be involved.
The fried cheese or shrimp croquettes are solid places to start noshing. The fries are also recommended, although it’s unfortunate that they cost $6 per order and dips like smoked mayonnaise are an additional $2 each. Another highlight are the Dutch mussels, which are sourced from Maine. They’re served in one of five sauces, including saffron and sausage or classic white wine.
Only a few days in, it’s impossible to say how The Sovereign evolves as a part of the Georgetown community. But with the amount of skill behind the bar, it’s undoubtedly worth a spot on your to-do list.
The Sovereign is located at 1206 Wisconsin Ave NW. Hours are Sunday through Thursday 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 2 a.m. The kitchen is open until 11 a.m. on weeknights and midnight on weekends.
