Mezcal at Espita is accompanied by orange slices and sal de gusano, an authentic salt made with toasted and ground agave worms. (Photo by Rey Lopez)
Drink of the week: Mezcal
Where to get it: Espita, Oyamel, Fuego Cocina
Mezcal is having its moment, and there’s no better time to enjoy this fiery Mexican spirit. Still, it’s a relatively infrequent offering at most bars in D.C., and there are plenty of mezcal beginners out there. You’ll be swiftly forgiven for being a bit unsure when it comes to the ins and outs of drinking it.
Most people associate mezcal with being a “smoky tequila”; that’s not too far off base as both are distilled from agave plants. But whereas tequila is made exclusively from blue agave, mezcal can come from a wide variety of agave plants and sometimes even a blend. The most popular is espadin, which typically offers the floral, smoky, sweet flavors that are most frequently assigned to a great mezcal, while its balanced body and good price point also make it a favorite for using in cocktails. The more expensive stuff can run the gamut of flavor from smoky — or not — to earthy, fruity, or spicy, and is best sipped neat.
Along with region, agave varietal is the primary way to characterize mezcal taste and character. Similar to how grape varietals, weather, and landscape affect wine, mezcal is also impacted by terroir, the combination of region and plant. While It can be aged, there’s not much reason to stray from the “joven” (young) stuff.
Drinking mezcal at a bar isn’t always cheap, but you usually get what you pay for. Newcomer Espita Mezcaleria (1250 9th Street NW) has an extensive mezcal menu sourced from small villages throughout Mexico’s Oaxaca state and the rest of the country. Helpful tasting notes guide and inform choices, with pours starting at around $10. Flights of three are between $24 and $42. Don’t overlook the mezcal-based cocktails, either.
Oyamel (401 7th Street NW) also specializes in mezcal flights, which can be had for around $15 all the way up to $40 for three half-ounce pours. There are many choices on the cocktail side, including the Sangre y Fuego, which combines mezcal, sweet vermouth, tart cherry liqueur, and housemade sangrita.
Other Mexican restaurants around the area are starting to carry a modest amount of mezcal, such as Fuego Cocina Mexicana in Clarendon (2800 Clarendon Boulevard, Arlington) and Impala Cantina (1358 H Street NE) in Northeast D.C.
Small Bites:
Georgetown gets “France-y”
The annual French market returns to Wisconsin Avenue in Georgetown today and runs through Sunday, May 1. Shops and restaurants will be running discounts and there will be plenty of sidewalk sales for browsing. Expect live music and family activities like face painting, too, and the first 100 bicyclists to stop by the Patisserie Poupon booth will get a free bag of French treats.
Free (seeds) for all
Cooperwood Tavern (4021 Campbell Avenue, Arlington) is celebrating Arbor Day today by giving out free packets of Flowering Dogwood seeds, the Virginia state tree. Anyone who dines or drinks at the Shirlington pub today is eligible. So get drinking (and planting)!
New eats at Glen Echo
Glen Echo Park is preparing to welcome Praline Bakery & Bistro, a new quick service restaurant. The space will open on April 30th and feature pastries, sandwiches, soups, and freshly-popped popcorn. There will also be several pre-made picnic options for enjoying before riding the historic 1921 carousel, which opens for the season on Saturday as well. Hours vary, so be sure to check online before heading out.
Veloce’s birthday bash
Chef Ruth Gresser’s fast-casual pizza joint Veloce (1828 L Street NW) is celebrating its first birthday during the week of May 2nd with several days of festivities and giveaways. Starting Monday, special offerings will be announced each day via Veloce’s Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter accounts; look for free pizzas, a breakfast pizza pop-up on the restaurant’s front patio, a beer and pizza happy hour, and complimentary black bottom cupcakes, a Gresser family birthday tradition. — Kristen Hartke