It’s pretty far off from the cidade maravilhosa, but there are still plenty of flavors of South America to be found in cocktail glasses along a stretch of 14th Street. Summery international spirits and juices play well together, much like the spirit of comity and competition evoked by the Olympics. A cocktail may be a poor substitute for an airline ticket, but it still offers an escape, however briefly, to the exciting and unusual.
“The food and the restaurant as a whole should transport you,” says Adrian Cane, assistant manager overseeing the beverage program at Tico (1926 14th Street NW). His bartenders are rolling out an entirely new cocktail menu that’s designed to give drinkers a playful international experience in a glass. “Our concept is saying hello to our neighbors to the south with elements of Brazil, Chile, and Peru,” Cane says, “while keeping it in context of the American cocktail scene.” In true Olympic spirit, Tico’s new menu has been a team event, where every drink can be attributed to one of the bar staff.
The journey starts with Pineapple Under The Sea. Conjuring images of Spongebob’s house, this drink is a pineapple juice and spiced rum cocktail that carries enough grapefruit peel bitterness from Campari to balance the childlike sweetness suggested by its name. The Tico Colada is served in a boot-shaped glass and brimming with shaved coconut, house-infused coconut reposado tequila, dark rum, and coconut milk. This is a long sipping drink with none of the 1980’s kitsch of a frozen Pina Colada. “We had the mugs lying around and wanted to make use of them,” says Cane.
Japan meets Brazil in Tico’s Caipirinha Do Ninja, a twist on the Brazilian classic made with cachaça, the country’s national cane sugar spirit. This cocktail swaps a delicate and floral sake for the stronger stuff and adds lime juice and whole banana pieces, which Cane says accentuate the banana-like notes of sake. The Chilcano Star, Tico’s take on the Peruvian national cocktail made with pisco, has an interesting interplay of spicy and bitter flavors. House-infused mint pisco, ginger ale, a star anise garnish, and enough Angostura bitters to give it a lush pink color and cinnamon flavor makes for a drink that holds your interest with every sip. Finally, the Maracuya Sour is reminiscent of a Pisco Sour, but vodka’s broader appeal and understated flavor allow the elderflower scent of St. Germain and tropical passion fruit to shine through the egg white foam.
There are exotic outliers to be found on the summer cocktail menu at Provision (2100 14th Street NW) as well. Look to the Pinju Tiki for a bitter and prickly pine flavored punch that is greater than the sum of its parts. Bar Keep apple bitters, pineapple juice, Beefeater gin, Martel cognac, absinthe, and Lyon dark rum make this a strong and spicy cocktail that tantalizes your taste buds. Light coconut and citrus characterize the Lime In The Coconut, which is made with Clement Select rum, lime juice, and a housemade coconut orgeat syrup, a rich and nutty syrup that gives the drink a concentrated coconut backbone.
There’s a Zombie lurking at Doi Moi (1800 14th Street NW) that needs vanquishing. This one is atypical for its omission of guava nectar and orgeat syrup, but it makes up for it with passion fruit juice and its potent light, dark and 151-proof rum bite. Proceed with caution.
Make it at home: Batida de Pina
The Batida de Pina is a pineapple smash that’s easy to make with a whole pineapple and a blender. Give it some Brazilian flair for your Closing Ceremonies viewing party by using cachaça instead of rum.
3 ounces light rum
2/3 cup fresh pineapple
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Fresh mint sprig
Cut the top off a pineapple and carve out the core to create a space to pour the drink. Combine the pineapple chunks, sugar, and light rum in a blender and blend. Pour the mixture into the hollowed-out pineapple and garnish with fresh mint.
