A plate of vegan wings at Smoke & Barrel. (Photo by Smoke & Barrel)
Dish of the week: Vegetarian barbecue
Where to get it: Acre 121, Smoke and Barrel, Fat Pete’s, Federalist Pig, NuVegan Cafe, Evolve Vegan
Barbecue purists will claim that, for something to be considered real barbecue, there needs to be wood smoke involved and the only thing that should be being cooked is a pig. In this justification, they have the backing of history. One of the first recorded definitions of the word “barbecue” in the English language in fact defines it as simply “a hog dressed whole.” And plenty of barbecue joints in the District are sticking to it, with menus filled with rib racks, rib tips, pulled pork, pork belly, sausages, and more.
But as “plant-based” diets are slowly gaining momentum across the country, so too are delicious vegetarian barbecue options. They’re creeping onto menus throughout the city, and these meat-free options are more than just tasty sides at otherwise carnivorous restaurants.
One of the most famous vegetarian barbecue offerings in the area are the smoked vegan wings at Smoke and Barrel (2471 18th St. NW). The seasoned balls of smoked seitan on a stick are served up fried with an assortment of house-made sauces. The wings are supplemented by a fleet of other meat-free options at the restaurant, including vegan spare ribs (also made from seitan) and a variation of the restaurant’s classic barbecue sandwich made with tofu and smothered with coleslaw, sauce, and a pickle.
Although famous for its Texas-style beef brisket and Kansas City burnt ends, all three locations of Fat Pete’s BBQ (3407 Connecticut Ave. NW; 801 18th St. NW; and 7406 Baltimore Ave., College Park, MD) cater to meatless diners with their smoked tofu and peanut dipping sauce. This dish is best when accompanied with other vegetarian sides like hush puppies, coleslaw, and mac and cheese. The low country experts at Acre 121 (1400 Irving St. NW) offer a similar meatless option of grilled tofu marinated overnight in hot and spicy barbecue sauce. And newcomer Federalist Pig (1654 Columbia Rd. NW) has rotating vegetarian and vegan options like smoked tofu or cauliflower.
Vegetarian barbecued flavors are not just limited to barbecue joints. Most of the area’s vegan restaurants have embraced the spice and the tang as well. At the NuVegan Café (2928 George Ave. NW), diners can grab barbecued tofu or a vegan barbecue roast over rice while, Evolve Vegan Restaurant (341 Cedar St. NW) offers a southern barbecue tempeh sandwich, replete with spicy vegan mayo on a toasted sub.
Whatever direction you choose, meat-free has never been quite so meaty.
