Sicilian arancini work as well as a bar snack as they do as an appetizer. (Photo by Urbana)
Dish of the week: Arancini
Where to get it: Rosario, Little Coco’s, Taylor Gourmet, Bibiana, Urbana
Italian cuisine is well known for its antipasti—small first bites that kick off lengthy meals brimming with bowls of pasta, crispy pizzas, and bottles of wine. And it’s not all ham, cheese, and olives, either. One of the most delectable Italian appetizers are arancini, fried balls of risotto rolled in breadcrumbs and filled with ingredients like ragu, stringy mozzarella cheese, and peas. Arancini are a Mediterranean dish originating in Sicily. They are related to the Roman fried suppli (find them in D.C. at 2Amy’s), although those typically have a cheese filling without flourishes like sauce.
Arancini often get extra fillings too, such as fresh herbs and peas that lend a subtle sweet crunch. That makes the spring harvest an ideal time to dig in on these Sicilian snacks, as chefs tinker with the classic rice and cheese recipe to suit the season. That holds in D.C. too, where arancini are both menu staples and rotating specials.
For a bar snack version, hit up the happy hour at Urbana (2121 P St. NW) inside the Hotel Palomar. These decadent arancini ($6) are made with porcini mushrooms, risotto and ladled with a creamy fonduta and are available from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday.
At the newly-opened Rosario (2435 18th St. NW) in Adams Morgan, chef Logan McGear cooks his arancini with a red wine Bolognese, Grana Padano and ricotta salata cheeses, and snappy peas on top of a bright green and garlicky basil pesto ($8 for two). He also incorporates Japanese breadcrumbs and the rice gets tossed in the sauce for a well-coated bite. It’s a hearty start to a pasta meal at this cozy bistro.
Up at Little Coco’s (3907 14th St. NW), owner Jackie Greenbaum says the basket of truffle and Parmesan arancini ($10) are a fixture of the menu. They’re currently accompanied by a fontina fonduta sauce—a blend of cheese, cream, butter, and egg yolks.
For a fresh twist, check out what’s happening at Taylor Gourmet‘s (multiple locations) spring menu. Culinary director Jacob Hunter infuses the seasonal risotto balls ($4.99) at this local sandwich chain with green pea, mint, ricotta and a lemon-tahini sauce.
Also for spring, Bibiana (1100 New York Ave. NW) makes an arancini-like “fritelle” ($12) with crispy prosciutto, mozzarella, pesto trapanese (a red pesto), and pickled watermelon rind. Better yet, they’re $3 each during the bar happy hour from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday.