Chefs Danny Lee and Scott Drewno have been immersed in Asian cooking for years, and both are responsible for some of D.C.’s best Chinese- and Korean-inspired dishes. Now, along with Matchbox Food Group co-founder Drew Kim, they’re working together to re-imagining what casual Asian food can be.
The culinary adventure is going down at Chiko (423 8th St. SE) in Barracks Row. DCist was recently invited in to try our way through the menu.
The fast-casual restaurant, whose name is pronounced like “chai-ko,” opened in early July. It’s already well on its way to being a D.C. destination for quick and affordable Asian cooking. Some might call it fusion, but the chefs here are just out to cook food they like and do it well, without many rules.
“We can do whatever we want,” Lee says, as he mans the small kitchen.
The chefs at the helm are working with familiar flavors and ingredients. Lee is co-owner of Mandu restaurant, with locations on K Street in Mt. Vernon Square and on 18th Street in Adams Morgan (though that location is currently undergoing fire repairs.) Drewno spent the last decade cooking in the shadow of the Newseum as head chef at the dim sum-heavy The Source by Wolfgang Puck.
Lee and Drewno have cooked together in the past and say they’ve talked for a while about working together. With fast-casual food being the “in” model, they decided to give it a whirl with their own styles. It’s a particular change of pace for Drewno, who recently transitioned from a much more formal atmosphere.
“I got tired dressing up for work,” he jokes.
Chiko’s building was previously home to hot dog joint DC-3, and the new restaurant has largely the same layout plus a few touches like fresh paint and a tailored kitchen. The tight menu is arranged with yellow interchangeable letters on a black board. You might notice a few spelling errors—but don’t question the staff’s grammar when browsing dishes like “rib eye & pjge gales” (that last part is rice cakes) or “limchi” (kimchi) stew.
As Lee tells it, the restaurant’s order of letters was apparently light a few characters of what they needed and it’s not as easy as you’d think to buy a few extra yellow Ks or Cs. If nothing else, it fits with Chiko’s laid back, come-as-you are atmosphere.
When you do come, there’s no need to plan ahead. Much of the restaurant is seating for walk-ins and to-go customers, with prices set to encourage repeat visits (though online ordering is also available). Appetizers and smaller dishes are under $10, with entrees ranging from $14 to $18. There’s no need to undergo any build-your-own-meal calculations, either.
For starters, seafood fans should try the succulent and plump peel-and-eat shrimp, coated with garlic XO sauce and chili lime. Hot days call for the “half-a-cado” salad, topped with citrus soy, radish, and almond slices. Or slurp up chilled Korean acorn noodles with kimchi, gochujang, and egg.
Chiko’s main dishes all expand on typical elements of Chinese and Korean cooking, such as fried rice, bulgogi beef, kimchi, and bold spices.
Chiko’s beef brisket with soft egg, and furikake butter is a menu highlight. Mix it around in its bowl of rice for a creamy, buttery, umami-filled bite. Prepare for it to be in the running for your new favorite D.C. comfort food dish, too. The house fried rice is another welcome upgrade on an old standby, aided by the restaurant’s addition of flaky smoked Schezuan blue catfish—a local invasive species. A selection of condiments is readily available to pump on the heat on any dish.
While the core of the menu isn’t expected to rotate frequently, expect to see some tweaks and specials to match what’s fresh or suit the weather.
“We’re still going to try and be as conscious to seasons as possible,” Lee says.
For something more eventful, make reservations at the four-seat kitchen counter menu tasting. The informal experience runs $50 (excluding tax, tip, and drinks) and includes several trays of food from the regular menu. The chefs are happy to chat up guests while serving up just about everything by the end of the meal. There’s value here, especially considering the intimacy and quality of cooking. There are daily seatings at 6 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.
While there is no full bar or cocktail program, Chiko offers a selection of beer and a modest selection of spirits and mixers for making gin and tonics or other simple drinks. Or just pair the chefs’ exciting food with a Coke or a Sprite and rekindle childhood memories of strip mall Chinese takeout.
At the end of it all, it’s that blend of comforting, familiar, and experimentation that makes Chiko worth a look, and a visit.
Chiko is located at 423 8th St. SE. Hours are Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 12 a.m., and Sunday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
