Poutine starts and ends with the universal truth that french fries are good, but french fries with a bunch of cheese and savory slop on top are even better. The dish of frites, gravy, and cheese curds comes to us from Canada (or New Jersey, if you know them as disco fries) so it makes sense that it took some Canadians to open a poutine pop up—even if it is Air Canada that finally did it.
Through November 15, the Poutinerie by Air Canada is taking over the former Kababji Grill space in Dupont Circle, where it’s whipping up globally-inspired poutines. Like a very greasy Olympics, the far-flung locales represented include Montreal (a classic serving of fries, gravy, and curds); Dubai (chicken shawarma, cucumber-tomato salad, and garlic tzatziki gravy atop fries); Rome (garlic fries piled with mozzarella and eggplant ragu); and Seoul (a kimchi, pear relish, and sriracha-topped plate). Two are served with sweet potato fries: the Sao Paolo serving with carne asada, chimichurri, and queso fresco; and the Toronto-inspired pork belly, cheese curd, and mustard combo. Poutine servings are $5, and drinks are $4.
The poutine is … fine. It’s fine! It’s hard to screw up delicious things on top of french fries. Still, some combinations work better than others: The Paris-inspired dish of frites, braised beef, mushrooms, and horseradish sauce is sufficiently sloppy and savory, while the plate meant to represent Shanghai—made with Asian pulled pork, hoisin gravy, and slaw—tastes like a deli chopped salad and a side of fries all shaken together.
Every dish does come with a whiff of synergy, as each of the starring cities represent Air Canada’s destinations from the D.C. area’s three airports. It’s PR, yes, but also some do-goodery: All of the proceeds from the nearly week-long pop up will go to the local education and food nonprofit Martha’s Table. This Poutinerie follows two other similar pop ups in London and Denver, both of which also contributed to local charities.
And because there’s nothing better after eating a lot of carbs than simulated air travel, the pop up also has a virtual reality game that simulates and Air Canada flight. There are also photo backdrops for tricking your Instagram followers think you’ve traveled to Shanghai, London, or Montreal.
Sadly, Air Canada is not offering tiny bags of peanuts or neck pillows at the Poutinerie.
Poutinerie by Air Canada is located at 1351 Connecticut Ave. NW through Nov. 15. Hours are noon-10 p.m. daily.
Lori McCue












