When Carlie Steiner, the co-owner of nationally lauded restaurant Himitsu, closed for two days to morph the 24-seat space into Pom Pom, she strung up dozens of the colored balls above the bar by hand. They’re a name and decoration she picked to “evoke joy,” says Steiner, a mantra she hopes will be evident to diners and the staff behind her first solo venture.
After three years of feeding eager patrons plates of Japanese-inspired cuisine, Steiner and chef Kevin Tien had an “amicable” split to work on other projects, they told Eater D.C. in August. Tien opened Emilie’s on Capitol Hill last month and Steiner expanded in Petworth with Dos Mamis, a cocktail bar across the street from Pom Pom. Far from being just a name change, Himitsu reopened as Pom Pom in September with a focus on self-described “international cuisine” share plates, bar creations sourced solely by women, and a reconfigured team. Though Steiner says transitions are always tricky, she was ready for a fresh start.
“I keep using the word ‘whimsy,’ but that’s what it’s about—producing a happy and joyful experience for everyone who dines here,” Steiner says. “You’re getting an intimate experience, but it’s not white tablecloth. It’s like fine dining without anyone being an asshole.”
Steiner intentionally tapped a mix of seasoned and aspiring professionals for Pom Pom, including former Doi Moi sous chef Amanda Moll, who has an executive chef role for the first time. The two met through Jo McDaniel, the bar manager at A League of Her Own. Rather than stick to one type of cuisine, Steiner and Moll chose to combine Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors, with pops of southeast Asian, Korean, and Japanese influence.
Their collaborative nature is a testament to a “healthy balance of leadership and mentorship,” Steiner says. When Steiner wanted some form of tah dig, or crispy rice, and Moll was adamant about Peruvian green rice, they met in the middle for a crispy green rice that also spotlights marinated eggplant, sesame, cilantro, and hibachi sauce.
“People are always surprised when I tell people we have a young [26-year-old] chef and I’m like, that’s the whole point, to lift each other up and give each other opportunities,” Steiner, 27, says. “We’re a team-driven restaurant. That’s why dishes like the tah dig make it on the menu. We are always very willing to listen to each other.”
Seafood and vegetable share plates take center stage, in part to make sure the menu has multiple options for diners who are vegan or gluten-free. The Hamachi bowl comes filled with labneh, zhug (a Yemeni hot sauce), pomegranate seeds, and preserved lemon. A blueberry version of the Japanese sanbaizu dressing goes over ceviche and crunchy onion. Persian curry features pumpkin, carrots, and walnut. A full Balinese roast duck ($59) is served with jasmine rice and carrot kimchi. Steiner and Moll also threw in a neighborhood burger special—a two-patty sandwich, pickled salad, and glass of red wine—for $30. Reservations are available every day of the week, and Dos Mamis will serve as a pre-dinner hang out when there’s a wait.
The team plans to keep the menu open to change-ups so they don’t feel “stuck in a box.” On the afternoon of this interview, Moll was in the process of making pink pasta out of beets after Steiner had a dream about it.
Steiner, who is known for inventive cocktails, carries over her use of local, women-owned products at the bar: rye from Republic Restoratives, flowers and herbs from Little Wild Things, and wines and vermouths from Capitoline. In similar fashion to Dos Mamis, nonalcoholic and lighter spirits including Seedlip, Campari, and sherries are prominent in several cocktails. Each cocktail name pays homage to Steiner’s inspirations, including singer and trans activist Shea Diamond, author Nicole Chung, and clean-water advocate Autumn Peltier.
Every decision about Pom Pom also reflects Steiner’s vision to create safety, support, and inclusion for everyone in the restaurant, she says, especially for those who work there. As someone who has a long history with hospitality, Steiner maintains that producing a dining experience is so much easier “when you’re feeling happy and healthy and not overworked.” Before opening, the entire staff had training through the Safe Bar Collective, a network that protects against sexual violence and discrimination in the restaurant industry.
“It’s important that we have spaces that aren’t necessarily identified as queer that are queer-friendly and just fucking safe for humans to be in,” Steiner says. “My support for women, LGBTQ women, trans women, has always shown in the beverage menu [at Himitsu], but now we’re able to showcase that throughout the entire restaurant. We’re lesbian-owned, we have a lesbian chef. To be in a place where your values and ethics are taken seriously—that’s what sets us apart.”
Pom Pom is located at 828 Upshur Street NW. Hours are Sunday-Thursday 5 p.m.-10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5 p.m.-11 p.m.
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