As protests against anti-black racism and police violence spread across D.C. and the U.S., efforts to support black-owned businesses have also gained national attention. In the restaurant world, consumers and diners seeking to spend in line with their values have turned to widely circulated lists of black-owned restaurants on social media, including mine.
In D.C., black-owned restaurants have reported a noticeable surge in business. Kristal Williams, co-owner and director of operations of the Shaw restaurant Fishscale, says that due to demand, they stopped taking new orders last Friday and Saturday “in an effort to be respectful of customers’ time,” and re-hired two previous employees to keep up with the ongoing surge.
Aside from this week, D.C. food coverage hasn’t historically done justice to the city’s diverse dining options, population, or rich culinary history. Takeout and delivery guides published as the coronavirus pandemic shut down local restaurants, for example, offer an example of how media coverage has consistently obscured D.C.’s black-owned restaurants in particular. For diners navigating the shifting landscape of changing restaurant options due to COVID-19, takeout and delivery guides are essential tools that offer curated recommendations. Yet, until just a week ago, only a handful of more than 380 recommendations in takeout and delivery guides published in local outlets (including DCist) since COVID-related closures began were partially or fully black-owned.
Jonelle Bryant, a fifth-generation D.C.-area resident and local food blogger who dines out daily, says that because coverage of the city’s food scene is defined by D.C.’s predominantly white food writers, “these establishments have long been overlooked as they’re not trendy.” This means that despite offering everything from takeout to fine dining, D.C.’s black-owned restaurants have not received the level of media attention as other local restaurants. Many food writers simply cannot relate to them. “They cover what they know,” Bryant says.
Andra “AJ” Johnson, beverage director and partner at Serenata and a co-founder of DMV Black Restaurant Week, points to a lack of access to capital as another factor contributing to the erasure of black-owned restaurants from D.C. food narratives. According to a 2017 U.S. Federal Reserve report, black-owned businesses are twice as likely to be rejected for loans as white-owned businesses.
“People who have the opportunity and money to put themselves in the forefront are what the D.C. culinary industry has been built on,” Johnson says. “If you’re out here doing the hard work and you don’t have money to pay for a PR person then it’s very hard” to snag a place on city-specific lists or recommendations.
Black residents make up D.C.’s largest racial group—46 percent of the population per 2019 census estimates. Moreover, foods deeply interconnected with the black community and black businesses have formed important pillars of D.C.’s food culture. The iconic half-smoke and the ubiquitous mumbo sauce are two such examples. Today, consider the buzz surrounding Roaming Rooster, a black- and immigrant-owned restaurant serving fried chicken. The popularity of Roaming Rooster and other similar options in D.C. demonstrates diners’ continued resonance with fried chicken—a food deeply connected to the black community and black American history.
Find below a selection of some of the District’s best black-owned restaurants. And with dine-in options still limited during the city’s phased reopening—and some diners remaining cautious about eating out—these restaurants are all open for takeout and delivery. These represent just a few of the more than 100 black-owned establishments that remain open throughout the D.C. area, all with good food that travels well.
DCity Smokehouse
203 Florida Ave. NW
You know what travels exceptionally well? Barbecue. The ribs from DCity Smokehouse have the perfect spice blend, bursting with flavor and a little heat. Don’t sleep on their Mac and Jack Cheese which is super luxurious and saucy, perfect to reheat later without becoming dry. DCity Smokehouse is available for takeout or delivery through various platforms.
FishScale
637 Florida Ave. NW
This Shaw restaurant serving house-made fish burgers and sides is a reliable stop for a healthy meal. Their fish sandwiches and burgers contain no fillers and only utilize wild-caught fish. All of the condiments and dressings are also made fresh in small batches. I recommend the Chesapeake Cheesesteak made with Maryland Blue Catfish and a house made aioli. Fishscale is available for takeout or delivery via Caviar.
Ethiopic
401 H St. NE
Ethiopic on H street has a variety of vegetarian platters for all party sizes, with the option to add a whole fried fish. Ethiopian food generally travels well and Ethiopic provides extra injera. Order online here, call 202-675-2066, or find Ethiopic on multiple delivery platforms.
Souk
705 8th St. SE
This Capitol Hill bakery has a great selection of pastries and baked goods, all made in-house, available for takeout from the front window or for delivery on multiple platforms. The kouign amann (pictured top right) is particularly noteworthy. Its delicate, buttery layers of flaky dough topped with pistachio are a great compliment to a coffee or tea.
Buna Coffeehouse
4400 Georgia Ave. NW
A takeout and delivery dining guide would be incomplete without an option for coffee. Buna Coffeehouse in Petworth offers up great coffee to go, with outstanding Ethiopian food options like the breakfast bowl featuring kinché, tibs, eggs, guacamole, and a homemade hot sauce. Stop by to order or find Buna available for delivery on multiple platforms.
The Kitchen Jerk
703 Edgewood St. NE
Operating out of the Mess Hall culinary incubator in Brookland, The Kitchen Jerk serves soul food with a twist. I recommend the Sequoia Combo (crab stuffed salmon) as it travels very well and contains a generous portion of seafood served over rice with your choice of side. Order for takeout or delivery directly via The Kitchen Jerk’s website.
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