When you walk in to pick up dinner at Shababi, you find it’s a family affair. The Palestinian rotisserie-style halal chicken joint is helmed by chef Marcelle Afram, previously in charge of the kitchens at Maydan, Compass Rose, and Bluejacket. Their wife, Joyce Miller, handles front of the house operations, while their 18-year-old son Caleb Williams serves as sous chef, his first restaurant gig.
“He’s always loved to eat the food I’ve made,” Afram says. “This was the first time he showed interest in how to make the food that I make.”
Afram’s business partner, chef Roro Asmar, helps out on a number of fronts, including backend administrative work and deliveries. The two got to know each other well after collaborating on last summer’s Beitna fundraiser, which benefited victims of the tragic explosion in Beirut. When Afram left Maydan and Compass Rose at the beginning of last December, it was perfect timing for them and Asmar to start collaborating on Shababi, which launched in mid-January.
Operating as a delivery and takeout-only ghost kitchen inside Asmar’s Alexandria deli, Roro’s Modern Lebanese, Shababi specializes in mussakhan, Palestinian rotisserie chicken. Afram grew up loving the dish, and always wanted to introduce it to a wider American audience.
They don’t mess with the classic equation much. Their one modification is to brine the birds for 24 hours in a honey-sweetened solution elevated with the same spices that go in the dry rub: all-spice, cardamom, fenugreek, cumin, and sumac. After they’re seasoned, chickens are slow roasted for nearly two hours.
Mussakhan is typically served with naan-like Levantine flatbread, taboon, topped with caramelized onions and either almonds or pine nuts. To ensure the garnish won’t slip off in transit, Afram makes a puree to spread on instead. Built on a foundation of onions cooked down in pomegranate molasses, it’s filled out with cashews and various spices, including sumac, parsley, and dried mint.
The round breads are par-baked on black river stones, which can heat up to 800 degrees. “At first, I drove around looking for rocks to use,” Afram says. “Then I thought, ‘Wait, that would be weird, taking rocks from the side of the road.’ So, we ordered them online instead.”
Diners order a meal bundle featuring either a half or full bird, the bread, and a variety of accoutrements. There’s double-blended hummus flared up with smoked paprika, quick pickled Persian cucumbers topped with crunchy, caramelized chili crisp that plays on Levantine dukkah spice blend, and za’atar fries coated with the oregano-forward Middle Eastern seasoning from D.C.’s Z&Z. A trio of condiments help bring it all together: spicy shatta sauce crafted with fermented roasted red peppers and chilies, a play on ranch dressing called mazarea (which means “ranch” in Arabic), and garlicky toum spread made from whipped olive oil, Asmar’s specialty. “I call him the toum master,” says Afram.
Dessert is a turmeric-colored orange funnel cake accented with orange blossom water — it’s Afram’s take on zalabia, traditional Palestinian fried dough. There are almost always rotating specials, including a plant-based item from Asmar (right now, it’s oyster mushroom nuggets). Other current offerings include baba ghanoush, a pickle medley, and mahalabia, cardamom milk custard topped with strawberries and pistachios.
Many of the dishes hearken back to Afram’s childhood. Their mother is from Lebanon, while their father hailed from Syria, and they owned a string of restaurants, including Takoma Park’s Charbroil, Tubby’s Diner in Laurel, and a Jerry’s Subs and Pizza franchise in Rockville. The latter is where Afram got their first taste of the restaurant life when they started working there at age 10.
In many ways, Shababi is a dream come true after two decades in the hospitality industry. “It’s the food I’ve always wanted to do,” they say. “I feel humbled that I get to do this. I’m showcasing what I grew up with, so there’s so much pride in what I’m doing.”
Most of Afram’s family has tried Shababi, and love it. The food brought tears to their father’s eyes. “It’s so nostalgic for him,” they say. “For people who have had these dishes before, I wanted it to pull on their heartstrings.”
The chicken-centric eatery isn’t a pandemic flash-in-the-pan. Afram says they are in it for long haul. They are considering moving to a dedicated brick and mortar location, perhaps in Alexandria, though they haven’t ruled out D.C.
Shababi is located in Roro’s Modern Lebanese at 5655-A General Washington Dr., Alexandria. Orders for the upcoming week go live on Monday at 3 p.m. Pickups are Thursday – Saturday 5 p.m.-7 p.m., Sunday 3 p.m.-7 p.m.
