Horace & Dickie’s is a tiny carryout that is occasionally touted as one of the last practioners of a homegrown D.C. culinary tradition: the massive fried fish sandwich. This steamy fry shack on a quiet corner of H and 12th streets NE is a one-of-a-kind neighborhood joint; a standing room only storefront that specializes in fried fish and chicken served open-face on a handful of bread and presented in a square of tin foil.

On a gorgeous 60-degree Sunday, we ordered practically everything we thought our stomachs could hold: a four-piece fried fish sandwich (the four-piece is the smallest one), fried dark-meat chicken, collard greens, cole slaw, macaroni and cheese, a piece of sweet potato cake, and an individually wrapped bean custard pie (we’ll explain later).

Without the convenience of tables and chairs or a neighborhood abode, we had to resort to eating in our car. Fortunately, the surrounding scene had no shortage of atmosphere. We were parked behind a maroon Benz sedan that bore a vanity plate reading “No Debt” and was blaring slow jams. This impromptu entertainment was serving a nearby group of employees and a few friends at the Soda-Ice Cream-Funnel Cakes window on H Street.