With the ink barely dry on the 2007 RAMMY nominations, we pored over the list of nominees searching for one that hadn’t already been reviewed to death or hadn’t already been visited by every serious eater in the city. Who wants to read one more critique of Restaurant Eve? Citronelle? They’re amazing, we get it, and as soon as we get that advance from Doubleday we’ll go check out those damned tasting menus.

But there, tucked below the headliner awards a name caught our attention — La Chaumiere? The old-school bastion of classic French country cooking had surfaced as one of the five best informal dining experiences of the year. Apparently, Chef Patrick Orange and his crew warranted a visit.

So unadorned and unpretentious that you’ve probably shuffled past it on M Street countless times without taking notice, La Chaumiere translates from French to “the old cottage” or “the country inn” a moniker that instantly makes sense as you enter the tiny dining room outfitted in exposed beams, whitewashed walls and a centrally located, open fireplace.

Like the décor, the menu speaks to simple, time-tested country themes. An appetizer of garlicky and earthy escargot is served red-hot, en coquille, while a rustic terrine of rabbit and red wine comes studded with pistachios and garnished with tangy cornichons. The quenelle de brochet, a pillowy pike dumpling draped in rich lobster sauce is an unembellished yet decadent Lyonnais classic. And when asked to judge the authenticity of the Emmenthaler cheese soufflé, our French dining companion smiled wistfully and said, “It actually tastes….just like my grandmother would make.”