For the last few weeks you couldn’t read any D.C.-area food publication without seeing something about Robert Wiedmaier’s Brasserie Beck. And all before it even opened. From Wiedmaier guest hosting Todd Kliman’s chog, two pre-opening mentions in DCist’s Weekly Feed, and frequent but casual mentions by The Washington Post and the blogosphere. And here Beck’s is being written about yet again. Whoever the restaurant’s publicist is, she’s sure earning her keep.

The best way to start at Beck’s is an order of moules frites, choosing from three options: white wine, parsley and garlic; curry & apple; and fennel & chorizo sausage. If you’re feeling a little flush, throw in the charcuterie: a collection of rabbit rillettes, country pate, prosciutto, salami and speck.

The moules frites in white wine were excellent, though my party was disappointed to find size variations from large and plump to almost non-existent. I did find myself spooning the broth onto the excellent baguettes and enjoying every bit of brininess, however. The dish was accompanied by three flavors of mayonnaise – regular, rose marie (ketchup mixed with mayo), and curry. The curry mayo was so good I wish I could get a big tub to take home and eat with a spoon when I’m feeling a little down.

Beck has a beer sommelier to navigate folks through the list of over 50–predominantly Belgian–beers. There are some treats on tap like Delirium Tremens, De Koninck, and Houblon Chouffe. Our sommelier recommended the Lindeman’s Gueuze Cuvée René, which is a lambic. Its small bubbles and golden lightness are why gueuzes are called the champagne of beers. It was a great palate cleanser to wash away the richness of the charcuterie, and it paired nicely with the mussels as well.