Written by DCist Contributor Gayle S. Putrich

It’s springtime in D.C. and apparently, if you’re a rock star chef, that means it’s time to open a moderately priced, bistro/brasserie/kinda casual place. Thanks to this little trend, I’ve managed to score some seriously good eats without going broke. But if you haven’t got the cash or the time to take the Tour of Bistros right now, stick with one of many reasonably priced delectable dishes at Central Michel Richard.

There’s a lot of homey Southern comfort food to be had at Central (pronounced cen-TRAHL), between the fried chicken, brussels sprouts and apple pandowdy, and its all handed over with a little French twist (Or it is really just a Michel Richard twist?).

Usually this goes well. Hangar steak is perfectly done and the oil/butter combo they’re cooking the fries in is so good they should put it in stores. The “Central steak sauce” on the 72-hour spareribs is superb; whatever it is, I’d like to roll around in it. But, there are times when the approach falls short, as with the dijonnaise that was served in a gravy boat alongside the perfectly fried chicken. The sauce was memorable only for how overbearing and out of place it seemed on the juicy chicken’s fluffy herbed crust.