Han Sung Oak in Falls Church has a familial feeling, from the large parties that occupy the main dining room and the private rooms in the back, to the service staff, willing to help you as you navigate the intricacies of their native cuisine. I was surprised to be asked “smoking or non-smoking” when I entered the restaurant, but all I smelled was grilled meat, so I don’t think the seating area would have mattered. Some of the tables in the main dining room have built-in grills, while others are equipped with portable units. We opted for the in-table grill.

The menu is expansive, offering an extensive selection of appetizers, rice and noodle dishes, porridge, and barbecued meats and seafood. The rice and noodle dishes are mostly soup like, combining pork, beef or seafood broth with cooked meat, tofu, kimchee, or fish (e.g., codfish, salmon, and octopus). There are also a few cold noodle dishes offered in both spicy (bi bim bap) and non-spicy (naeng myun) versions. The porridge (abalone or pine nut) goes for $10.95 a bowl. The barbecue selection is wide as well, with multiple sections of cow for the taking (e.g., short ribs, tripe), chicken, and seafood (e.g., squid).

Based on a recommendation, we ordered the gal bi barbecue, which is marinated short ribs brought to the table raw and cooked on the grill. Your server brings out the broth, turns on the grill, brandishes the meat scissors, and goes to town. A few minutes later, you are rewarded with tender medium-rare pieces of beef, which you combine with the numerous accompaniments to make a lettuce-wrapped bundle of tasty delight. Every bite is filled with different flavors, as you can mix combinations of scallions, bean paste, soy sauce, picked zucchini, onions, greens and kimchee with the beef. The best part about the beef is that the pieces that stay on the grill longer get a bit of crispy exterior to them. Even though they dry out somewhat, the broth keeps them moist during the late-meal pickings.