Dish of the Week: Offal
It may be a bit kitschy going with a Halloween theme for the dish of the week, but offal is delicious, though perhaps a little stomach-turning for some. In olden times, it only seemed obvious to make something out of every part of the animal. But in a world of industrial food production, it seems most people only turn to the prime portions – breasts, hams, steaks, etc. That leaves behind a multitude of organs, bits and bobs that no longer seem as palatable in the face of conventional proteins. Offal can be a challenge for some – gelatinous, chewy, squeaky or pasty textures. But for those who love the variety it is a treat.
It was only in the last 30 years or so with the advent of the buffalo wing that chicken wings even came into the mainstream. Previously they had been relegated to stock pots and as cheap sources of chicken for those who understood their charm. So you never know when you might discover the next buffalo wing. Along with making some tasty discoveries (duck tongues, pig ears, fish eyeballs), there is a certain satisfaction in watching people’s faces when you tell them about it.
Last night, I was treated to pig heart and kidney skewers, as well as beef tongue. The heart was squeaky and extra chewy, but not as tough as one might expect from the body’s strongest muscle. The kidney had a flavor reminiscent of liver, but maybe could have used a little longer soaking as it tasted of what passes through kidneys. Thinly sliced, the tongue looked similar to brisket, so that if a diner doesn’t think about it, will have no problem eating it.
For those who don’t have the resources to get ahold of these organs, there are a few other great offal options. You can get the lengua (beef tongue) tacos at Taqueria Distrito Federal. Or head over to Firefly for their special of Rocky Mountain Oysters through January 25, in honor of the Christo exhibit at the Phillps Collection featuring Colorado.