Ray’s the Steaks at East River opened its doors in Ward 7 to much fanfare earlier this month. Part of Michael Landrum’s local Ray’s brand, the new location has quickly taken on the weight of being more than just a restaurant. Race, socioeconomics, neighborhood revitalization, jobs, unemployment, and access are among the weighty themes woven into the fabric of discussion of the nascent restaurant.

But how’s the food? Landrum says in unofficial press releases and right on the menu that you won’t find better quality for value anywhere. With his gargantuan portions and low prices, he hits his mark.

Prices are do a double-take low. Nearly all of the sandwiches, which come with two sides, are well under $10. Entrees range from the low to high teens, topping out with the T-bone, king cut prime rib and crab royale at just over $20. A modest wine list starts at $14 for a white zinfandel and doesn’t go much higher above that.

Hecklers at the grand opening ridiculed the opening of an upscale restaurant at which they couldn’t afford to eat, but it’s a losing protest. Two all-natural 100 percent angus beef hotdogs, with a basket of fries and a bowl of slaw, is $5.95. What’s a Big Mac meal or medium Quiznos sub cost these days?