Pete’s Apizza tiramisu

Dish of the Week: Tiramisu
Where: Pete’s Apizza

For most people of a certain age, the first time they heard of tiramisu was when they watched Sleepless in Seattle. Tom Hanks is having a conversation with a friend about dating. The friend asks him if he’s had tiramisu and that he needs to try it, and Hanks’ character interprets it to be something kinky that he needs to perform on a woman.

Nowadays, most people identify tiramisu as an iconic Italian dessert. However, it is fairly modern, only showing up in the 50s, with recipes not appearing in publication until the 80s. Ladyfingers are saturated with strong coffee or espresso, and layered with a mascarpone-based mixture and topped off with cocoa or espresso powder. Jane Black published a fascinating history of tiramisu, tracing the alleged original maker to a bakery in Baltimore.

While many would protest making a trip to Baltimore to try the original, the tiramisu at Pete’s Apizza tastes pitch-perfect. I was surprised to discover that in these days when many places outsource their desserts, Pete’s hired pastry chef Dan Fogg to manage their program. Along with gelato (at the new Friendship Heights location) and other treats, the tiramisu is a delight. The challenge is getting the right balance of flavors, and ensuring that the coffee is not too bitter. The result is a flavor profile that is more caramel and sweet than bitter. While bitterness has its place, the light roast in Pete’s tiramisu makes for a lovely ending that almost makes me want to skip the pizza.