by DCist contributor Leigh Bailey
Imagine a season of Project Runway where almost none of the designers has ever used a sewing machine, one of the models becomes a winning designer, all the contestants are nice to each other — and they’re all in their teens.
That’s what happened at Saturday’s “Rip This Runway” competition, where eight area teens took a turn at designing and constructing original garments, then sending them down the runway. The process and the results were an inspiring example of the intelligence and creativity of our city’s oft-maligned youth.
The brainchild of the D.C. Public Library‘s Rebecca Renard and professional designer (and former Project Runway contestant) Carmen Webber, the event brought together girls and boys ranging from 13 to 17 years of age. It all took place at Martin Luther King, Jr. Library and the National Portrait Gallery’s Kogod Courtyard, and represents Renard’s hard work to make D.C.’s libraries a destination of choice for teens, coupled with Webber’s commitment to using fashion as a platform for education.
The day opened with Webber interviewing the contestants and asking them to describe their passion. Some of the kids were already on a path to a career in fashion, like 17-year-old Rene Vasquez who is off to Virginia Commonwealth University in a few weeks to begin making his passion a reality.
Others, like Arykah Wilkes, admitted “my passion is undecided as of now.” Incidentally, Arykah had come as her friend’s model, but Webber was so impressed by the girl’s self-made deconstructed denim vest, that the youngster was coaxed into joining the competition.
Next the challenge was announced: design a top that reflects ethnic diversity in the fashion industry. The burgeoning designers were given one hour to choose and research — using library resources, of course — an inspirational figure from any minority group, and then design a garment inspired by their choice of figures.
And they were off! Some of the teens needed a bit of direction and there were inspirational figure switches — from Eminem to Jean-Michel Basquiat and from Katy Perry to Shakira — but soon everyone was on the right track and began sketching their designs. Once all the sketches were approved, designers had four hours to construct their garments. There was not a trip to Mood or any other fabric store in this competition. Instead, teens chose their raw materials from piles of fabric donated by D.C. Threads and old clothes dropped off by library patrons.
Webber served as the Tim Gunn figure, patiently shepherding contestants through every aspect of the process. Most of the young designers had done little to no sewing, but received patient assistance from Webber and a handful of knowledgeable volunteers. The teens were quick studies and fabric was soon rattling through machines.
Almost everyone was very ambitious and wanted to design not only a top, but some sort of bottom. Arykah began transforming a pair of track pants into “high-waisted sailor pants mixed with M.C. Hammer.” Rene expertly ripped fabric along the grain and fitted a Mayan-inspired skirt and top on his model (and cousin), Jackie. The other male contestant, 14-year-old Stephon Moses, had never sewn before, but slowly and steadily transformed a white t-shirt into a multicolored top à la Basquiat.
Khadejah Sangare, aged 16, who entered the contest to “learn more about fashion and to learn to sew,” worked painstakingly on creating an exquisite white ruffle to bedeck a tricked-out pink T-shirt. 14-year-old future cartoon artist Jayda Guy draped and re-draped a tweedy skirt on her patient BFF and model. Naja Buckmon, 16, patiently transformed a pair of black jeans into a cute little miniskirt with ruffles, topped with a colorful, Harajuku-inspired halter.
Exuberant 15-year-old Khadijah Davis, who wowed Webber with her handmade paper hair bow, overcame her fear of the sewing machine and made a cool dress with a red T-shirt top and bright floral skirt. Working quietly on her own for most of the day, 13-year-old Desha Bennett turned out a sassy t-shirt top and skirt, emblazoned with a colorful flower.
There were lots of happy smiles as the teens watched their sketches become actual garments. They helped and cajoled each other and never failed to say “thank you” to volunteers. And somehow, everyone managed to make it work and was ready for the runway just in time.
The fashion show itself took place at the Kogod Courtyard. There was a real runway and the audience was packed with parents, friends and teen regulars from MLK. Rebecca Renard played emcee and the models strutted the catwalk with pride. There was no Garnier hair salon or Piperlime accessory wall, but styling was impressive nonetheless.
Judges — stylist, Carolou Goodrich and H&M manager and photojournalist, Eleena Fikhman — chose three finalists: Khadejah Sangare, Arykah Wilkes and Naja Buckmon. Then it was up to the audience to text their votes for the winner. Fingers tapped on phones and soon the winner was announced… Naja! Applause and cheers celebrated work well done and the success of a fiercely wonderful day.
