Charred octopus with green harissa and eggplant at Kapnos.
Mike Isabella, the former Top Chef contestant who has opened several restaurants in the D.C. area, is opening another.
Isabella will open Kapnos Taverna, a sister restaurant to his new 14th Street NW eatery Kapnos, in Ballston next summer. The 185-seat Greek restaurant will have a large wine program and an outdoor patio.
“Guests have been asking me to build a restaurant in Virginia or Maryland since we opened Graffiato in 2011,” Isabella said in a release. “Kapnos has been wildly popular in its first few months, and we think this sister concept will be a great addition to the booming neighborhoods in Arlington.
“Next spring, our team will travel to Greece, and we plan to build the menu around reinterpretations of regional cuisine.”
DCist’s food editor Alicia Mazzara visited Kapnos when it opened in July and had this to report:
A sampling of a dozen different mezze revealed some clear stand-outs. Braised cauliflower and chickpeas in a sweet sauce of tomato was warming and soothing, calling called to mind an aromatic Indian curry, thanks to a hint of fenugreek. Charred octopus was toothsome without turning rubbery, the grilled flavors perked up by a kick of piquant harissa. Marinated spring lamb was delightfully tender and slightly caramelized and offset nicely by a nutty, citrus-laced grain salad.
But the dish I’ll be back for is the duck phyllo pie. It’s got a little bit of everything going on: the crunchy, buttery phyllo shell gives way to tender duck meat, balanced out by a tangle of vinaigrette-kissed watercress, red onion, and bing cherries. It’s a rare occasion when at least five different flavors and textures all play well together.