Unlike the horror movie genre of classic films, the classic cocktails cannon doesn’t have a large repertoire of ghoulishly named drinks. That’s not to say you won’t find Corpse Revivers or Undertakers in a bartender’s handbook, but these titles refer more to the cocktail’s effect on the drinker than to any fiendish figure who prepared them. Yet D.C. bartenders must face the task of concocting a Halloween-themed drink to fit the holiday—a holiday that coincides with a culinary tradition of meeting consumers’ demands for pumpkin spice in everything from doughnuts to tequila. Fortunately there are several mixologists who have taken a different tack to come up with drinks that have real shock value.
My first stop on this haunted tour is The Oval Room (800 Connecticut Avenue NW) across from the White House, where I heard that head bartender Max Hill had a drink he called the Grim Fandango. At least that was the name at one time. Ask for it now and he will give you the Fall Again; and I was so looking forward to singing “Scaramouche, Scaramouche!” Max says the new name is more of an acquiescence to the flavor profile of the season. “We were all kind of sick of pumpkin spice in a cocktail and how ludicrous it is that the flavor is so prominent. We were trying to get more real pumpkin flavor in the drink, and it tastes fresh because of the real pumpkin.” Besides squash juice, there’s rye and cider sweetness that made for a smooth and only lightly spiced cocktail fit for the season. All Oval Room cocktails are priced at $12 dollars and are an amazing flavor experience.
Mockingbird Hill (1843 7th Street NW) will be serving a classic Zombie cocktail at a Halloween event honoring Edgar Allen Poe. Head bartender Paul Taylor says it is called 28 Sherries Later as a tribute to the Zombie film 28 Days Later. “The idea is another zombie drink with multiple sherries—fino, muscatel and amontillado,” says Taylor. “It came out of The Mauser and Windsor [both sherry punches] that are very sherry forward with a tiki vibe.” Taylor explains that “sherry gives it a nutty richness” but falernum provides the strength and Angostura and Peychaud’s bitters mimic the Zombie’s blood and bite. I love a good tiki, and have come to appreciate the drier and less juicy variety of the earlier classic Zombies. Get this one for $13 dollars.
Old Town Alexandria is known as one of the most haunted cities in America, and Magnolia On King (703 King Street, Alexandria, VA) has a drink dedicated to its history—the Spirits Of Alexandria’s Passed. The title works both ways: one for the ghost factor, and the other referring to the colonial style of cocktail that George Washington enjoyed. Mixologist Zachary Faden uses a combination of house-made spiced sour cherry syrup, Calvados Bushnell Vieille Reserve VSOP, Old Overholt Rye in this rendition of Washington’s Cherry Bounce. The drink, garnished with a brûléed and spiced orange, goes for $14 dollars.
One doesn’t usually order a Martini at Cuba Libre (801 9th Street NW) but their Halloween drink, the Candy Corn Martini, looks like something you might find in a kid’s trick-or-treat bag. A layered drink like this has been done before, back when pousse café drinks were popular, but this one is colder and more appetizing. What is most surprising is that the three layers, vanilla vodka, dark crème de cacao and orange juice, taste pretty good together. Get the Martini garnished with candy corn for ten dollars. This drink is eye-catchingly tacky and perfect for your Halloween sweet tooth.
Long ago, Madiera made for a decent nightcap, but with gin and juice added it became the Nightmare! Make this creepy classic to enjoy while watching an old Vincent Price flick.
• 2 oz. gin
• 1 oz. madeira
• 1 oz. Cherry Heering or cherry brandy
• 1 tsp. fresh squeezed orange juice
Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.