The vodka craze in America began after Prohibition, and it hasn’t let up since. Flavorless, colorless, and extremely mixable, vodka has been a required ingredient on every cocktail menu. Increasingly, though, vodka’s dominance of the spirit market has given way to whiskey and gin in the wake of the craft cocktail movement. Vodka isn’t included in the classic cocktail repertoire, which explains why many younger (read: hipper) drinkers are making the shift from vodka to bourbon.

That doesn’t mean that vodka has ceded ground—it still dominates with vodka brands making up more than a third of all spirits sold. And brand loyalty helps to buoy deluxe vodkas like Belvedere and Grey Goose. But there’s a sense of impending capitulation when you see vodka companies like Absolut marketing a barrel aged vodka that tastes more like bourbon.

Since vodka is still America’s favorite liquor, with or without flavor, it’s worth taking a closer look at what bartenders in the D.C. cocktail scene are doing to prove its relevance in the classic cocktail age.

Vodka has one important advantage: it’s flavorless, which allows other ingredients to shine through. Rich cordials and bitter amari are great in small quantities, but adding vodka produces a drink that lasts for more than a few sips. That’s the case with the Ruby Soho at Rasika (633 D Street NW). Bartender Jeremy Wetmore, who heads up the cocktail program there, says he chose Jeppson’s Malort as the primary flavor. “It’s the spirit of Chicago, the only wormwood spirit made in the U.S. It has a funky pollen note and none of the fennel of absinthe,” Wetmore says. And unlike absinthe, Malort packs a bitter punch. (Google “faces of Malort.”) With Tito’s vodka to spread out the flavor, you can appreciate the liqueur and even enjoy the interplay of house-made raspberry syrup and lemon juice in this balanced and interesting cocktail.

Hangar 1 vodka ups the alcohol content of the Fraise Fling at Founding Farmers (1924 Pennsylvania Avenue NW). With cava brut, lychee, and strawberry juices, and agave nectar for sweetness, it tastes like a sparkling fruit smoothie. The natural strawberry color shines through in this coup glass cocktail due to the clarity of the base spirit.

Another plus for vodka is the wide variety of producers and distilling methods. Just look at the liquor menu at Russia House (1800 Connecticut Ave NW), where they serve 40 kinds of Russian vodka alone. Sample them by the shot and distinguish between clear and cloudy, smooth and harsh, or choose your favorite to have in a Martini. Absent other flavors, small factors like the starch used in distilling (potato, wheat, or neutral grain) and filtering techniques become apparent and appreciable.

Sometimes a simple, thirst-quenching drink with friends is all you need. Brasserie Beck (1101 K Street NW) has Tiger’s Fall, their take on an Ice Pick with Elyx vodka, Cointreau, iced tea, and cardamom bitters. It’s elegant and sociable—a perfect for pairing with lunch including oysters on the shell. They also make an Elyx punch for two made with apple and pear shrub that’s served in a brass pineapple container.

Stop for a drink at Circa’s downtown location (2221 I Street NW) heated patio bar for the Foggy Bottom. This drink combines Svedka Citron vodka, cucumber, lemon juice, and rosemary for a fresh herbal sipper. And if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em—vodka and bourbon, that is. The Kentucky Tea is a mix of Deep Eddy Sweet Tea Vodka and Four Roses bourbon augmented with fresh ginger and house-made raspberry grenadine. Both are sociable vodka drinks that won’t have you making bitter faces.

I always shift over to unaged spirits in the beginning of the new year. It’s a break from all the richness of the holiday season and a chance to return to basics. Sherry and vodka are all that’s needed for a Soviet Cocktail.
• 3 oz. vodka
• 1 oz. Manzanilla sherry
• 1/2 oz. dry vermouth
• lemon twist

Combine all ingredients except twist in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with lemon twist.