Photo by Tom.Dish of the week: Whole fish entrees
Where to find it: Kinship, Maketto, Kapnos, Doi Moi
Fish can be tricky to prepare well at home, making it one protein that’s often best entrusted to professional cooks. This is doubly so for whole fish, unless your local fish monger is kind enough to scale the beast for you. But if you can get past the bones and fish head, a whole fish is an incredibly flavorful and satisfying meal.
Many restaurants are embracing more minimalist preparations of food as well as more communal dining experiences. One way to achieve both of these goals is to serve up whole fish and let diners go at it. The presentation is often stunning and it crosses many culinary styles, from American to Italian to Asian.
You can find an upscale version of this entree at Kinship (1015 7th St, NW), a project from Eric Ziebold, who worked at the now-closed CityZen. It’s one of the hottest restaurants in the city, and the “for the table” portion of the menu features a salt-crusted dorade for $60.
The Greek-focused Kapnos (2201 14th St, NW) offers both whole bronzino fish for sharing as well as a salt-baked dorado. They’re a bit of a splurge but good ways to round out a meal of smaller mezze plates.
Other not-to-miss fish include a couple Asian variations like the curry version at Maketto (1351 H St. NE) and the crispy ginger whole fish at Doi Moi (1800 14th St, NW).
Small Bites:
Tiki Drinks in January
The Royal’s (501 Florida Ave, NW) monthly late-night cocktail series is rolling on, this time with South American tiki-themed twist. Stop by the bar this coming Monday from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m. for a selection of specialty $8 drinks made with exotic ingredients and spirits. Guest bartender Lukas B. Smith of Dram & Grain, Secret Monkey Social Club and Cotton & Reed distillery will be behind the bar.
A Spain-meets-Asia food pop-up
Redeye Menus is bringing its unique pop-up combination of Spanish sherry and Asian food pairings to Wolfgang Puck’s The Source (575 Pennsylvania Ave, NW) on January 13. The dinner is $95 per person and guests can expect a whole roast duck bar with bao buns and toppings, along with a whole baked rockfish, shrimp dumplings and other snacks from Chef Scott Drewno. Wash it all down with a selection of sherry and sherry cocktails.
“Backyard” NFL playoff party
Head over to Jack Rose Dining Saloon (2007 18th St, NW) during NFL playoff weekends for a whole host of food and drink specials. Highlights of the tailgate-themed menu will include 10 draft beers offered for $5 each, 10 whiskeys priced at $6 each and a slate of discounted food like $5 crispy chicken skins and $9 smoked whiskey wings.
