Participating in Mardi Gras revelries is as American as making and drinking cocktails. Of course the two go hand in hand, but both are a product of the European and Afro-Caribbean cultures and spirits that converged on New Orleans a century and a half ago.
While people have been mixing alcoholic beverages for time out of mind, cocktails really got their swing in New Orleans. It’s possible that the word cocktail originated from the French-Creole term for the double-ended jigger, coquetier, then in use in New Orleans. While we can’t all go to the Big Easy for a cocktail, you can still get your Mardi Gras fix here in D.C.
As D.C. Mardi Gras celebrations became more ostentatious, so did the cocktails, with colorful and flamboyant Hurricanes and heavily-decorated Pimm’s Cups. I spoke with Adam Bernbach, bar manager at 2 Birds 1 Stone (1800 14th Street NW Lower Level) about the Mardi Gras drinks he’s serving up the week of February 9.
“The first is the Hurricane with El Dorado light and dark rums, passion fruit syrup, orange and lime juice—I use Angostura bitters to give it lushness,” Bernbach says. This is the modern frozen version of the drink, which is smooth and juicy. “I have to confess I have a real love of the Pat O’Brian’s Hurricanes,” says Bernbach of the famous French Quarter restaurant and bar where the drink was reputedly invented. “I would go there when I went down to New Orleans to visit my family.”
For the whiskey drinker, Bernbach stirs a Cocktail la Louisiane with Rittenhouse rye, Cocchi vermouth, Benedictine and a few dashes of Pernod and Peychaud’s bitters. It’s surprisingly soft and laid back for all that bitter spirit, a ruby cocktail on a single ice cube, and an orange twist. Bernbach’s final grand-looking cocktail is the French 75. This one is drier and more bitter than a lot of bubbly drinks that go by that name. “I use orange bitters and Beefeater gin for that liquorish, mint-ish flavor,” Bernbach says. With his eye for presentation and flair, he spears a Luxardo cherry amidst the curls of a lemon twist that lay on the glass.
Of course there’d be no Mardi Gras in D.C. without Black Jack (1612 14th Street NW), where they’re holding a four-day Mardi Gras Fest beginning February 6. There’ll be beads, masques, costumed bar staff, and of course cocktails. If you’ve been waiting to order a Ramos Gin Fizz, complete with egg white and flower water, but didn’t want annoy the bartender, you can get it and other Carnival classics for only $10. They also have $8 Hurricane and Jamison Irish Coffee slushies; and you can get Jell-O shots for $3. The local funk band Swagfunk will perform on Saturday the 6th from 4-8:30 p.m. and again on the 9th from 7-11 p.m.; outrageous party attire is encouraged.
On February 9 only, you can enjoy New Orleans cocktails with a Mardi Gras menu dinner at Michel Richard’s Central (1001 Pennsylvania Avenue NW). They are debuting the Alligatorade: Midori, lemon vodka, and pineapple and lemon juices make it green like an alligator, and a swampy alternative to the rum-based Hurricane. They’re also shaking up other classics like a French 75 made with Osocalis Brandy instead of gin, a Corpse Reviver #2 served on absinthe-laced crushed ice, and a Hurricane with Flor de Cana rum, St. Germain and pineapple, orange, and passion fruit juices. Patrons can also enjoy Creole-inspired hors d’ouevres and specials. The best Mardi Gras mask wins a four-course tasting menu dinner for two cooked by Chef David Deshaies.
For a Big Easy standard from the home bar, make the New Orleans cocktail and use Peychaud’s, the classic New Orleans bitters. I substituted ouzo for anisette, which gives the drink more warmth than the absinthe alone.
• 2 oz. bourbon
• 1/2 oz. absinthe
• dash Peychaud’s bitters
• dash ouzo
• dash orange bitters
• 1/2 tsp. simple syrup
• lemon twist
Combine all liquid ingredients in a mixing glass with ice. Stir and pour into an Old Fashioned glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.
