By DCist contributor Kate Stoltzfus
Where there’s smoke, there’s barbecue—and D.C. native Rob Sonderman has the mouthwatering science down pat. The former pitmaster behind DCity Smokehouse’s beloved meats (which reopened in a new space January 4 after a year-long hiatus), is now lighting fires at Federalist Pig (1654 Columbia Rd. NW) in Adams Morgan.
The restaurant opened its doors in December through a partnership between Sonderman; Steven Thornton, the former chief operating officer of Nando’s Restaurant Group; and Steve Salis, the co-founder and former chief executive officer of &pizza.
Sonderman, who has roots in the south, says he doesn’t “know any other way to make a living than cooking BBQ.” He bought his first smoker at age 15 and “burned a few briskets” in the early days, but has perfected his technique over years of practice and a degree from the Culinary Institute of America.
Though Sonderman says there is only “so much you can do with meat,” fans of his recipes should expect to find the menu and the atmosphere completely reinvented here. New dry rubs and pickle brines, six house-made sauces (like mustard BBQ, Carolina vinegar, or blue cheese), and a weekly option for vegans and vegetarians (like smoked tofu, cauliflower, or jackfruit) are all welcome additions. Unlike DCity Smokehouse’s original digs, there’s also more space to sit in-house.
One thing remains steady—there are plenty of reasons to lick your fingers. DCist had the opportunity to sample some of the restaurant’s food on a recent visit.
In the low yellow lights of the narrow joint (formerly Döner Bistro), diners order at the counter and watch an assembly line of cooks, including Sonderman, serve up meats that begin smoking at 2 a.m. the night before. It’s unexpectedly intimate, as though Sonderman “is inviting people into his kitchen,” Thornton says.
Any barbecue aficionado knows there are four main styles—Kansas City, Texas, Carolina, and Memphis—and Federalist Pig pulls in “a little flair” from each region.
The rib tips are reminiscent of vinegar-based Carolina sauce. Brisket brings a twist of sweeter, tomato-based Texas flavor. Because this is D.C., Sonderman also offers more vegetarian options than, say, Texas barbecue restaurants, where meat often sneaks into the vegetables. There are hefty sides of crispy brussels sprouts, chipotle garlic green beans, mac and cheese, pickled veggies, seasoned French fries, thick buttered Texas toast, and red potato salad.
Sonderman’s smoking technique is a little different than at DCity, and it isn’t just because of a new gas-fired smoker. Rather than stick to a few kinds of common wood, he varies the flavor of the meat’s subtle smokiness with experimental combinations of maple and cherry, red oak and pear, or persimmon and honey locust.
Platters and combos start with a choice of smoked meat, such as brisket so tender it falls off the bone, pork belly and spare ribs, chicken wings, or half a bird with a spicy dry rub. A sampler platter with three meats and two small sides is $18. A pitmaster special for two with four meats and two medium sides runs $28. For those who want a healthier option, there’s a house salad with any meat and apple cider vinaigrette.
The joint’s six signature sandwiches are not to be missed either. Thornton believes it’s where Sonderman’s culinary skills shine through. The pitmaster’s personal favorite is the Carolina On My Mind ($9.50), a hefty Carolina-style barbecue with coleslaw and crispy skin cracklins to add crunch. There’s also Music City, a spicy fried chicken breast topped with greens, pickles, and buttermilk ranch ($9.50) or the Big Cheese, chopped brisket soaked in barbecue with melted cheese and crispy onions ($12.50). All orders are available to go, and the restaurant plans to add catering during off-hours.
Everything is made fresh daily, and the restaurant serves until the meat is gone.
In the first weeks, offerings would sell out as early as 7 p.m. After adjustments to the amount of meat smoked beforehand and a better handle on the crowds, diners have a better chance to score a meal closer to closing hours. The restaurant will continue to increase quantity as business gets underway. Federalist Pig’s Twitter and Facebook accounts will also have daily updates on how much barbecue remains.
Unlike the pitmaster’s former space, there is room for 30 diners at high-top tables running the length of an old church pew. Local touches abound. The door comes from a former meat factory at Union Market; D.C.-based artist Kelly Towles added flair with an American flag on the storefront’s corrugated tin and a mural of a giant pig, whose body spans the length of one wall. A sink for washing sticky hands is right next to the silverware and sauces. In warmer months, the restaurant plans to add patio seating, as well as beer and cider.
As to the secret behind all this solid barbecue? It’s about quality meat “cooked low and slow by someone who cares,” Sonderman says.
“When I have someone come in and give me a skeptical look and then they’re back four days later for more, that’s why I wake up and do what I do every day,” he says. “If someone cares about what they’re doing in the kitchen, you can taste it.”
Federalist Pig is located at 1654 Columbia Rd. NW. Hours are Wednesday—Friday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., and Saturday—Sunday, noon to 9 p.m. (or until BBQ runs out).
