The team behind Baked & Wired and A Baked Joint quietly opened doors to K Street’s La Betty last month, their first sit-down restaurant since making a name in breads and pastries.
The Velazquez family’s 75-seat expansion into dinner and drinks pairs family recipes and childhood comfort foods by lead cook Teresa Velazquez in a modern-chic space designed by her architect husband Tony and son Zak, an artist who runs the sister restaurants’ coffee program.
La Betty is named for Teresa’s grandmother, but it’s also a nod to “any person that you feel at home with,” says daughter Tessa Velazquez, who manages operations. “It’s like you’re coming into our house: simple, good food with no frills.”
All of the family’s business ventures have been an effort to fill a need they see in the city, Velazquez says. Her parents started Baked & Wired because Georgetown didn’t have “many places to get a good cup of coffee” two decades ago. When the family wanted more homemade bread, they opened A Baked Joint. As they’ve watched D.C.’s restaurant scene expand, the influx of fine dining has also meant higher prices, hours-long queues, and experimental menus that leave some diners scratching their heads.
La Betty’s goal is to serve food reminiscent of a favorite relative juxtaposed by a well-curated atmosphere of oriental rugs, stark black and red walls, and art by Baltimore artist Whitney Frazier. A wall of famous Bettys—including Betty White and Betty Davis, the restaurant’s namesake—decorate a wall with a window into the kitchen.
“To be in a beautiful space you’re often expecting to pay $200,” Velazquez says. “We want to bring back that idea of a neighborhood spot. You don’t have to Google the ingredients under the table while your server is gone or wait in line outside or spend a bunch.”
An average check has been $35 for drinks and dinner, Velazquez says. The dough-forward menu pays homage to Teresa’s German and Irish heritage. As one of six kids, Teresa was often the one cooking meals for the family during her childhood in Ohio and still uses variations of those recipes.
Homemade corn dogs, dipped in mustard and a house sauce of whipped capers, chives, parsley, and gherkins, are a play on the special treat Teresa ate growing up. The root veggie galette riffs off chicken pot pie and a twice-baked potato has its inside scooped out and mixed with cream cheese and sour cream before crisping up in the oven. A head of roasted cauliflower stays vegan-friendly in almond mole and cashew cream.
Her children’s favorites from family dinners and world travels also make an appearance. Inspired by trips to Germany, there’s a currywurst in an onion tomato sauce that pairs well with beer, homemade French fries, and chicken schnitzel coated in panko and topped with arugula and fennel salad and mustard vinaigrette.
For dessert, the family wanted to highlight what they can’t do in a bakery setting: blueberry sour cream cheesecake with a graham cracker crust, flourless chocolate cake, Baked & Wired’s cherry pie served with a scoop of homemade ice cream, and, in the future, churros. Fans of the family’s sister spots can order a selection of other popular items—quiche, cupcakes, Cracked granola—to go.
Drinks are also simple: nothing shaken or stirred and no bartenders. Instead, “all servers are doing drink service, just like you’d do at home,” says beverage director John Lodato. Pre-batched Americanos, house wines, and lighter shots like sweet vermouth are in the mix if you don’t want the restaurant’s German-style beer service. Otherwise, order an eight-ounce Kolsch or dark beer ($3.50 per serving) and waiters will refill empty glasses until diners signal they’re done (with a coaster over the glass).
La Betty plans to stick to a dinner-only menu during the week but will roll out brunch by early May and open an outdoor patio area for summer.
La Betty is located at 420 K Street NW. Open Wednesday-Monday 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
Updated La Betty Menu 04-05-19 by Lori McCue on Scribd
This story has been updated with the correct spelling for the names of Zak and Teresa Velazquez.
