Standing in her galley kitchen, Zora Margolis observes how impractical it is for a seasoned chef. “I don’t have enough counter space for all my machines,” she said. But Margolis has a soft spot for the kitchen because it was built by her husband Jonathan Alderfer when he was young.

Margolis and Alderfer were married 35 years ago in this house Alderfer’s grandfather bought in the 1940s. Framed by azaleas, peonies, and boxwoods, the bungalow nestled in the neighborhood behind the reservoir is long on charm and a little wild, much like the kitchen is today.

Margolis, a native of Los Angeles, is halfway through the process of making traditional Mexican tamales the way she remembers them. “Most of those you’ll find around town are Salvadorian,” she said. Though D.C. has evolved with regard to specialty groceries, ethnic eateries, and fine dining, many people like Margolis miss foods from home — be it bagels or baklava. As a result, they’re taking it upon themselves to cook what they’re craving, which requires mastering more complicated techniques, researching authentic recipes, or taking classes.

Margolis and Alderfer moved to Washington from L.A. in 1996, when Alderfer’s parents decided to move to a retirement community. Though it had been already decided that Alderfer’s parents’ house would stay in the family, the prospect of living there was such a draw for Margolis and Alderfer they decided to head east and call it home.

One aspect of moving to Washington that Margolis hadn’t anticipated was how difficult it would be to find authentic Mexican food. Notwithstanding the fact that her family isn’t of Mexican descent, “I grew up with Mexican flavors since I was two,” she said. “The flavor that I missed the most is that of fresh masa, the basic flavor of Mexican cooking.”