Though the area surrounding the intersection of 9th and U Streets is commonly known as “Little Ethiopia”, the neighborhood’s soul food roots have been experiencing a resurgence. First came the much celebrated Oohhs and Aahhs, then the arrival of Brown Sugar, and, just two months ago, A Taste of Carolina entered the soul food fray.

Unlike Oohhs and Aahhs and Brown Sugar, A Taste of Carolina has eschewed the carry-out ambiance in favor of a full-service restaurant and bar. At first glance, the homey menu, which offers no shortage of descriptions for each item, is a litany of fried and barbecued things—chicken, fish, and potatoes. But a closer look reveals a few surprises, especially for those of us who are used to the Virginia interpretation of soul food, or, by contrast, the hardcore soul food offerings of Georgia and Tennessee (relax, folks, we know that quality country food abounds throughout the South).

Nearly every item on A Taste of Carolina’s menu is named in homage to one of the many cities and towns that dot the Carolinas. It becomes clear that the chefs put together a menu of things they themselves love to eat, and frankly, we love this kind of send-up to one’s home state. Although the prices are about double what one would enjoy at other soul food joints, the ambiance, charm, taste, and quality are all there.