This post written by DCist Food contributor Analiese Bendorf
While Washingtonians managed to evade the worst of the country’s winter weather, there is one thing that blew into town that we’ll gladly welcome. That thing is Il Mulino, a branch of New York’s Italian restaurant by the same name. It’s known for its gargantuan, garlicky portions and is poised to take D.C.’s upscale dining scene by storm.
The restaurant was originally founded in New York’s Greenwich Village in 1981, and has since expanded to eight locations nationally and internationally (from Aspen to Tokyo), now including D.C.’s very own outpost at 1110 Vermont Avenue, NW. Named the number one Italian restaurant in New York City for over 20 years by Zagat survey, Il Mulino is publicized as “a celebration of delectable cuisine, exquisite presentation, and pampering from the attentive and polite staff.” A recent visit confirmed that there is, in fact, a lot to celebrate about this upscale Italian destination. (Full disclosure: My reservation was booked by Il Mulino’s PR rep, and it’s clear the staff knew I was there to critique. However, my experience is bolstered by the restaurant’s reputation for good food and great service.)
The Il Mulino experience begins the moment you step foot in the door. A smiling host whisks off your coat and ushers you to the wood-paneled bar. (We were a few minutes early for our reservation.) Be sure to scan the room for D.C. power brokers and take in the scenery as you sip a scotch on the rocks. Walls are adorned with tapestries and warmly lit from the glow of hanging chandeliers. The subtle tones are broken up by a colorful—almost Warhol-like—display of Italian foodstuffs: large pumpkin-shaped casks of grappa, oversize cans of tomatoes, and a mise en place where servers add the final touches of sauce and spice. It’s a feast for the eyes, hinting at the wonders that await you.