Rogue 24, chef/owner R.J. Cooper’s new kitchen theater/destination dining experience, has announced a July 27 opening date. Cooper’s concept is similar to Jose Andres’ six-seat Minibar, but on steroids. The 52-seat restaurant, tucked away in Blagden Alley, will seat diners for a 16- or 24-course menu, at tables surrounding an open kitchen in the center of the dining room.
Minibar, Volt’s Table 21, and other similar chef’s tables offer guests a shared intimate experience with a small number of guests literally breathing down the chef’s neck. Rogue 24 will offer diners this experience with eight seats surrounding the open kitchen for those that want in on the action. For those who want more choice, a 14-seat salon will offer a la carte food and cocktail selections.
The restaurant is boastful of the expert team of artisans assembled to execute Cooper’s vision. “Rogue 24 is both a studio and stage for dedicated culinarians and sommeliers to have an immediate impact on guests with their knowledge and commitment to excellence,” Cooper says in a press release announcing the opening. He brought The Columbia Room’s Derek Brown in to consult on the cocktail program that will accompany the meal. And general manager/sommelier Matthew Carroll hails from 2941 and the Inn at Little Washington. A Craigslist help wanted post calls for prospective employees “dedicated to the craft of hospitality and have the unique abilities to be the best” to apply.
It’s a bold gamble for Cooper. That many courses don’t come cheap. The cost of the dinners are $100 (16-course) and $120 (24-course) without beverage pairings, and $145 and $175 with, not including tax and gratuity. It’s a long evening, not exactly a meal to just fall into with its price, time commitment and location.
Cooper is a decorated chef with a following and a James Beard Award from his years at the helm of Vidalia, has a history of local charity work, and he appeared recently on Iron Chef America. But that doesn’t quite provide the buzz of, say, a long run on Top Chef that will leave fans beating the doors down.
D.C. is a town with people that have money to spend. Can it fill the seats with enough of them on a nightly basis? Cooper certainly seems to think so. He’s excited diners in New York during his pop-up restaurant preview. It drew a controversial, and many would say unfair, opening night review from the Washingtonian, but we also gained a preview of the 24-course “Journey” that D.C. will get to try for itself in a couple of weeks.
The language on Rogue 24’s website certainly sets the bar high for the new restaurant and its artisans. Cooper seems to spin his love of food, bev and his kitchen into a higher cause, a new religion of Rogue 24.
“Under the vision and direction of Chef/Owner R.J. Cooper, guests will experience a progression of small dishes that excite the senses, tantalize the palate and awaken curiosity. … We didn’t choose Rogue 24, it chose us. As culinary artisans we need a studio to hone our craft. Rogue 24 is a space for us to create and perform – sharing our individual and collective knowledge with guests as we strive to deliver the highest level dining experience.”
Time will tell whether the concept is too precious or a D.C. dining revolution. One thing is certain: those are some big words to live up to.
Reservations for July 27 will be available on July 14 by calling the restaurant at 202-408-9724. Check out the video below for a quick glimpse into Cooper’s kitchen:
