Another day, another restaurant opening along 14th Street. Kapnos, the latest offering from Mike Isabella (formerly of Zaytinya, currently of Graffiato, and infamously of Top Chef), opened its doors at 2201 14th Street NW last weekend. Despite the hiccups that come with eating at a freshly opened restaurant, we decided to give it a shot during its first week.
Kapnos translates to “smoke”, a flavor that repeats itself on Isabella’s extensive menu of Greek small plates. The menu has a little something for everyone, ranging from cold seafood to spit-roasted meats, with an extensive selection of vegetarian dishes in between. Small plates run between $8 and $19, depending on the size and whether there’s any protein in the dish. There are also handful of larger dishes, ranging from $60 to $90, including whole roasted bronzino, chicken, whole lamb shoulder, that are designed to be shared with the entire table.
A sampling of a dozen different mezze revealed some clear stand-outs. Braised cauliflower and chickpeas in a sweet sauce of tomato was warming and soothing, calling called to mind an aromatic Indian curry, thanks to a hint of fenugreek. Charred octopus was toothsome without turning rubbery, the grilled flavors perked up by a kick of piquant harissa. Marinated spring lamb was delightfully tender and slightly caramelized and offset nicely by a nutty, citrus-laced grain salad.
But the dish I’ll be back for is the duck phyllo pie. It’s got a little bit of everything going on: the crunchy, buttery phyllo shell gives way to tender duck meat, balanced out by a tangle of vinaigrette-kissed watercress, red onion, and bing cherries. It’s a rare occasion when at least five different flavors and textures all play well together.
Other dishes are not yet quite up to the high expectations that one might have after having dined at Zaytinya or Graffiato. Smoky hen of the wood mushrooms tasted of mostly of, well, smoke. The moussaka, a formidable tower of lamb, eggplant, and bechamel, was assertive to the point of being overly salty. Meanwhile, the flavors in the fava, a stew of mushy yellow lentils, corn, pearl onions, and spinach, never seemed to quite come together. As for the texture, a dining companion likened it to baby food.
While the menu still has some kinks to be worked out, it’s otherwise hard to tell that Kapnos is a brand new restaurant. Service was smooth and courteous despite a full dining room. And for those of you dreading the 45 minute to two hour waits that seem to accompany every new restaurant on 14th Street, Kapnos blessfully takes reservations seven nights a week.
Kapnos
2201 14th Street NW
(202) 234-5000
Sunday-Wednesday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Thursday-Saturday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.
