Dish of the Week: Korean-style fried chicken wings
Where: Bonchon, Daikaya Izakaya, KoChix, Room 11
The only thing better than fried chicken is Korean fried chicken.
That’s a contentious assertion, especially since it’s hard to top such a classic crowd-pleasing dish. But the Koreans have arguably taken everyone’s favorite comfort food to the next level, making it crispier and spicier. Here’s why and where you should be eating it.
I will posit three reasons why Korean fried chicken is the superior fried chicken. First, it’s double-fried, and that means double the crunch but half the grease. Second, the batter is thinner so as not to overwhelm the actual chicken. And finally, the sauces are in a league of their own. Sure, buffalo wings have their time and place, but they seem utterly one-dimensional compared to a savory explosion of soy, garlic, and honey.
Korean fried chicken first emerged in two of the most self-important coastal cities in the U.S., New York and Los Angeles. And while Washingtonians love for “the other KFC” hasn’t reached the same fever pitch, we have a few good spots to slay a fried chicken craving. Bonchon Chicken, an international Korean chain, has opened up half a dozen outposts in the DMV suburbs. Bonchon has a devoted following thanks to their mouth-numbing spicy garlic wings. In the District proper, you can try KoChix (400 Florida Avenue NW), a tiny carryout spot in Shaw that serves up milder, but no less delicious, honey spicy and garlic soy wings. Even fancier joints are getting on the bandwagon, with Korean fried wings appearing on the bar menu at Room 11 (3234 11th Street NW). Their batter isn’t quite as thin, but the sticky, spicy sauce has a rich earthiness from a healthy dose of gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste).
While not quite Korean, the “Golden Brown Delicious” fried chicken currently on special at Daikaya Izakaya (705 6th Street NW) is also worth a mention, if only so you can order it before they take it off the menu. The fat drumsticks are marinated in Calpico, a yogurt-flavored Japanese soft drink that keeps the meat moist and tender. The drummies are then battered and fried to crunchy perfection and dusted with gold leaf and Sriracha honey. Eating gold may feel a little silly, but it’s more than worth it for the nirvana-like ratio of crispy skin to juicy meat. The dish is part of a special Golden Week menu available through May 5th.
Small Bites
Spring Menus Abound
The Fainting Goat (1330 U Street NW) and Executive Chef James Barton introduced a new spring dinner and cocktail menu this week. Seasonal vegetables and herbs such as leeks, ramps, fava beans and rhubarb are highlighted as both standalone options and as sides to larger plates such as pork, skate, and their namesake protein, goat. New drinks include the Not So Dark, A Little Stormy (rum, ginger soda, kaffir lime juice and lime leaf) and a weekly-rotating seasonal punch featured during happy hour (mango, lavender and white whiskey punch was a previous punch).
Jack Rose Dining Saloon (2007 18th Street NW) has brought in Executive Chef Russell Jones who is introducing a new menu format to the formidable bar program. Southern-style snacks including fried chicken skins with paprika and lime and shrimp hushpuppies with Old Bay aioli are featured starters, or share a “Supper Plate”, a collection of five to six snacks among your table. New entrees include Atlantic red grouper and an ale brined half chicken, but don’t forget your veggies — fried green tomatoes and crispy Brussels sprouts with roasted garlic can be ordered on the side. — Ashley Wetzel
Sound Bites Benefiting DC Central Kitchen
The fifth annual DC Central Kitchen’s Sound Bites will take place this Sunday (May 4th) from 1-5 p.m. at the Ronald Reagan Building’s Woodrow Wilson Plaza. Tickets can be purchased for $65 and include all food, cocktails, beer and local music that this outdoor festival features. Twenty-six area restaurants are supplying the food and the experts to judge a ‘Mixologist Madness Competition’ hosted by WJLA’s Scott Thuman and Tommy McFly. — Ashley Wetzel
Strawberries, For a Limited Time Only
Starting May 11th, Dolcezza embraces strawberry season by adding strawberry-flavored gelatos and sorbets to its menu. The DMV is known for having a short five-week strawberry season, so head to one of the five locations (Union Market, 550 Penn Street NE; Mosaic District, 2905 District Avenue; Georgetown, 1560 Wisconsin Avenue NW; Dupont, 1704 Connecticut Avenue NW; and Bethesda, 7111 Bethesda Lane) before it’s too late. You can also grab a second scoop of other new spring flavors such as Sicilian Blood Orange, Avocado Honey Orange, and Georgia Butter Pecan. — Ashley Wetzel
