Himitsu, the Japanese word for “secret,” is in some ways apt name for the modern Japanese-style restaurant now open at 828 Upshur St. NW in Petworth. Housed in the previous Crane & Turtle space, its small size and neighborhood vibe would seem to belie its lofty ambitions to turn out artful cooking and clever cocktails. But a meal here shows those two things can find a way to work together.
Himitsu has just 24 seats, takes no reservations, and party sizes are capped at four. The menu is divided into several sections that include a daily sushi selection (both nigiri and makimono) along with cold and hot plates meant to be shared among diners. Portions sizes are large enough that a couple of dishes per person make a filling meal.
Still, the cost of dinner here can add up quickly. Most cocktails run between $11 and $15 and shareable hot and cold dishes range from $10 to $18. These prices are backed up by the high quality of the product and the talent behind the bar and in the kitchen.
Himitsu is the creation of business partners Kevin Tien and Carlie Steiner. Tien is a veteran chef, having held jobs at a number of acclaimed restaurants such as José Andrés’ Oyamel and, most recently, Pineapple and Pearls. And Steiner is a force as a bartender, with experience mixing drinks at Andrés’ Barmini and Minibar, and as a founder of craft cocktail catering business Stir Bartending.
Freshness is one of Himitsu’s guiding principles. The menu will adapt regularly to feature the best possible ingredients. Fish gets flown in daily from Japan, and Tien works with distributors to select the prime inventory available rather than stick to a specific order. The restaurant’s small footprint makes it easy to be nimble and highlight what’s in season, Tien says.
Seafood is prevalent, but far from the only option. The menu on a recent visit included a hearty dish of roasted daikon radishes with curry Greek yogurt, pistachio, pickled mint and honey ($10) and a delicate bigeye tuna tartare ($18) with shoyu ginger, scallion, and quail egg. Some staple dishes will likely stick on the menu, Tien says, including the spicy and crispy karaage fried chicken ($18) that has already become somewhat of a signature item.
Cocktails get equal care and attention thanks to Steiner’s resume and passion for exposing guests to usual spirits and flavors.
“Building the beverage program here has been the most exciting things I have done all year,” she says. “I was able to combine my passion for making proper, classic cocktails with a bit of curated, out-there, avant-garde cocktails.”
So don’t expect Sapporo on draft or a laundry list of rice wine. Instead, you’ll find classics that will change each day along with contemporary offerings that will rotate roughly monthly.
Current contemporary hits include the Barasu ($12), a refreshing and light mix of sake, smoked green tea, pineapple vinegar and shio. For something stronger, try the Awaken, which uses Japanese whiskey, Oloroso and PX sherry, cold brew coffee and toasted coconut ($15).
Speaking of sherry, Steiner’s has a decent selection of the fortified wine on the menu, as strange as that might seem for an Asian-influenced restaurant. She recommends pairing a glass of Oloroso sherry with the karaage or the salt & pepper agedashi tofu (and if you order that, be sure to snag some rice to sop up the extra dashi broth).
If you can’t decide what to order, Steiner and Tien conveniently mark their favorite daily drinks and dishes with a praise hands emoji to help with decision making. It’s all part of a concerted effort to double down on hospitality.
“With all the popularity of chefs and bartenders in the past 10 to 15 years, I feel like we have lost the most important part of running a service-based business, which is service,” Steiner says.
All these aspects together point to a concept and price point undoubtedly signals a chic and upscale destination. Still, Himitsu hopes its friendly vibe and changing menus will foster a comfortable atmosphere that encourages repeat customers.
Time will tell if Himitsu remains a secret for much longer.
Himitsu is located at 828 Upshur St. NW. Tuesday through Saturday 5 p.m. until late. Closed Sunday and Monday. No reservations or groups more than four.
