By DCist contributor Meghan Dubyak
Dan Koslow loves chicken so much he slept with a commercial-grade oven.
That’s the kind of devotion that he and co-owner Andrew Harris bring to Farmbird (625 H St NE), a new fast-casual chicken restaurant on the H Street NE corridor.
Working long hours in New York City, the pair found themselves longing for healthy, affordable food that was also satisfying. By night they toyed with chicken recipes, inspiring Koslow to purchase a commercial-grade oven for his tiny apartment. But it didn’t fit in the living space without blocking his roommate’s view of the television, so it went into his room each and every night.
Three years, a move to D.C., and a catering business later, this passion is evident at Farmbird, where there’s not a freezer in sight and humanely-raised, locally sourced chicken breasts and thighs are trimmed, brined, and grilled to order. DCist had the opportunity to sample a meal and speak with Harris and Koslow about getting into the chicken business.
The boneless, skinless chicken breasts melt in your mouth after being brined and cooked in high humidity. The dry-brine used on the thighs—which are deboned in house—dehydrates the skin to provide a perfect crisp.
Just as you would “never cook short rib and filet the same way,” explains Kaslow, “having separate processes for cooking breasts and thighs was a big thing for us.”
After being cooked and then grilled to order, the chicken is served multiple ways. It can go on top of salad ($9.35) or as a sandwich ($9.35). But it shines the most when plated on top of sauced basmati rice (or cauliflower rice at no extra charge) and fresh garnishes. The plates cost $9.35 with one side or $11.35 two sides. The meals are paired with bold flavors, thoughtful garnishes, and nutritious sides evocative of classic comfort foods.
The sauces will satisfy every palate, from spicy roasted fresno and chipotle chili masala for heat freaks, to creamier textures without the guilt, like avocado basil and barbecue ranch. Each flavor stands out without overshadowing the chicken.
Lightly-dressed kale is offered to customers and serves as a great palate cleanser before you dig into sides that most diners would be happy to eat as a meal. The roasted Brussels sprouts and breadcrumb-topped macaroni & cheese stand out among the many offerings. Vegetarians and vegans will be pleased to learn that chicken can be substituted with tofu in any dish, and all diners can choose among four sides that are vegetarian and dairy-free.
The food can be washed down with Spindrift sparkling water and paired with Sweet Street Manifesto cookies from Kaslow’s home town of Reading, PA. And for those interested in accompanying their chicken with a locally-crafted brew, fear not: a license for beer and wine service is in the works.
“Our goal is to change the way people think about chicken by combining the rare pleasure of thoughtfully sourced and carefully prepared chicken with bold flavors,” Koslow says.
