Bidwell’s gluten free crust makes for an earthy, flavorful pizza that’s not just for the gluten intolerant. (Photo by Josh Novikoff)
Dish of the Week: Garden of Edens pizza on vegetarian/gluten free crust
Where: Bidwell Restaurant
Gluten haters, this one’s for you.
John Mooney launched a wood-fired pizza program at his Union Market restaurant Bidwell (1309 5th Street NE) this summer. While setting a modest menu of five curated pizzas, he’s supremely ambitious about his dough, offering four different options—two of which are, surprisingly, gluten free.
On a menu full of delightful surprises, there is nothing more unique than Mooney’s vegetarian crust, made with herbs and zucchini grown aeroponically on the restaurant’s rooftop garden. The greens are mixed with a cauliflower base instead of wheat flour, resulting in a gluten free crust similar to a zucchini pancake that’s been baked, not fried. The crust is particularly recommended for the Garden of Edens pizza, a concoction with mozzarella cheese, pesto, corn, cherry tomatoes, and arugula, and even some nasturtium fresh from the roof. It’s a great summer pie to try while in season.
For those with celiac disease or gluten concerns, pre-made frozen gluten-free crusts are now being used at many pizzerias, but the vegetarian crust at Bidwell is one of two scratch-made GF options on the menu; the other is made from chickpea flour and rice flour, a somewhat lighter option than the long-standing version found at Rustico in Alexandria.
Because pizza dough is typically made with flour, water, oil, and yeast, vegetarians and vegans can usually enjoy it without concern, unless some pesky chef has added in a knob of butter or lashings of bacon fat. Bidwell’s vegetarian crust stands out because of its crispy yet earthy texture. While I generally wouldn’t go out of my way to eat an alternative flour crust pizza, this roof-top veggie and cauliflower crust is more than just a GF option: its flavor and texture allows it to stand on its own.
Price point is another area where Bidwell stands out. At $12 to $15 each for a generously-sized pie, there’s no upcharge for the GF crust—the pies cost the same no matter what dough you choose.
Small Bites
Food City of the Year
Bon Appétit magazine named Washington D.C. as the 2016 food city of the year. The honor was bestowed based on the strength of neighborhood restaurants opening and thriving around the city alongside foundational downtown chefs like Fabio Trabocchi and his Fiola Mare in Georgetown, which recently attracted President Obama for his birthday dinner. The declaration comes on the heels of naming Bad Saint, The Dabney, and Tail Up Goat as three of the country’s top 50 new restaurants. On August 16th, we’ll find out if one of these D.C. hotspots made it to the top of the list, like Rose’s Luxury did in 2014.
Farm Fast Casual
Farm-to-table fast casual restaurant Modern Market opened in Bethesda Row (4930 Elm Street) this week. The expanding chain, by way of Colorado and Texas, emphasizes whole, sustainably sourced, local foods served lickity-split. The day starts with breakfast plates of cage-free eggs, nitrate-free meats, and whole grain made-from-scratch waffles, while salads, seasonal homemade soups, plates of sesame tofu, chicken, and steak, 12″ pizzas, gluten free options, and a kids menu round out the rest of the meals. Locations planned for McPherson Square (1010 Vermont Ave NW) and Rockville (1627 Rockville Pike) are coming soon.
George’s Mount Vernon Comes To Mount Vernon Square
The Founding Farmers folks are readying a new restaurant for 600 Massachusetts Avenue NW, scheduled to open in the fall, saying that Farmers & Distillers “embodies the true enterprising spirit … in celebration of George Washington,” inspired by the farming techniques and distillery at Mount Vernon. “What would George do?” will be the guiding concept behind the project, which has led to a menu drawing inspiration from local neighborhoods and ethnic histories; look for Chinese flatbread, crispy German pork schnitzel, and Pot au Feu. The massive 12,000 square foot space will have seating sections that include a barn room, a pleasure garden by the bar, a private dining room called The General’s Parlor, and an on-site distillery.
Popsicle Mimosa Brunch
Ris DC (2275 L Street NW) continues its bottomless popsicle mimosa brunch on Sunday morning, and it looks like the weather is going to oblige with a massive heatwave that complements them perfectly. Mimosas are delivered to the table with upside down mimosa popsicles sitting in them for your licking and sipping pleasure, priced at $20.
Olympic Gold Means $1 Beer
Doi Moi (1800 14th Street NW) is so excited by Vietnam’s first ever Olympic gold—it came in 10 meter air pistol—that they are offering $1 beers or $5 glasses of Sparkling Gold Pineapple Wine to all guests that stop by for a drink or meal.
Lambrusco Week at The Partisan
The Partisan (709 D Street NW) will celebrate fizzy red wine—AKA Lambrusco—next week starting with an August 15 tasting party where guests can taste all ten Lambruscos, ranging from light and fruity to dark and deep, selected by beverage director Brent Kroll. Learn more about the wines, and see how they pair with the restaurant’s charcuterie, which will be featured in Lambrusco & Charcuterie flights all week. Tickets for the event are $42.
D.C. Restaurant Week
It’s next week! Here’s what we had to say in January when the blizzard tried to cancel winter restaurant week, and last summer’s tips. Get out and eat.
