An old-school deli in one of D.C.’s hippest neighborhoods? Fuggedaboudit.
For all its restaurants, D.C. has a particular dearth of traditional Italian delis, with their black-and-white flooring, ceiling-hung laminated signs listing the almost-too-many sandwich options, and shiny glass display cases of goodies ready to be scooped into to-go containers.
But this image is alive and well in Shaw thanks to Capo Delicatessen, which opened this month at 715 Florida Ave. NW. DCist was invited in to experience the shop, and it’s true old school—straight out of Little Italy.
Indeed, owners Brian Vasile and Andy Seligman of Capo are no strangers to the food business. They already run Grand Central in Adams Morgan and Brickside in Bethesda. Both hailing from New York, they bemoaned the lack of nostalgia-inducing Italian available in the District.
Seligman recalled his days at college in Florida, when he’d frequent a deli nearby that served “the best sandwiches ever.”
He says he went nearly every day.
Vasile and Seligman made the trek from D.C. to that very deli, where they pitched their idea to owner Sal Falcone. They wanted to create an homage to Sal’s operation here in Washington, right under Takoda and around the corner from Town Danceboutique.
Falcone agreed and came on board as a consultant. He flew up to D.C. to help with the opening, and is involved with design, planning, and procurement.
“Shaw is a great area. We’ve arrived at one of the most vibrant neighborhoods in the city, still growing.” Seligman says. “It blows my mind how many people are out here, day and night. The foot traffic is fantastic, and we’re excited to be open late, when people can get their chicken Parm as better late-night option.”
Though small, the space has homey touches. A gorgeous Instagram-worthy mural is splashed across the wall in Italian-flag colors, and black-and-white portraits grace the walls, from the 1937 Cardozo High football team to Falcone’s grandparents.
“We want the sandwiches to speak for themselves,” Falcone says, though he also made sure to emphasize the short but sweet dessert options. The cannoli cream is made in-house.
“I eat one every day,” says Seligman.
Capo is nothing fancy, and that’s just the way the owners like it. The sub rolls are properly seeded. The Italian dressing is made in house. The meat is sliced while you watch. The cheeses are just what you’d expect (provolone, cheddar, Swiss, Muenster), though there are a couple of fancier international options for a whiff of the higher-end Italian dairy department, such as fontina and asiago.
Step up to the counter, and it’s a meat-lover’s delight. Weighing in at more than 20 cold sub options, and 10 hot sub options the menu doesn’t skimp on the protein. Each come in two sizes, priced $8.95 to $13.95. Deli beginners may stick with perennial favorites like roasted turkey with provolone, but there’s more to be had. Hot-cooked capicola, imported prosciutto di Parma, and a monster shaved home-cooked roast beef doused in marinara. It’s like a saucy, meaty hug.
“Serving good-quality Italian food, along with kindness and warmth, is a recipe for success,” says Seligman. “Like at Sal’s deli, we want customers to feel at home. Sort of like Cheers, but with more meat, and where your grandmother would be comfortable.”
Hearty Italian “secondi”-style dishes like eggplant Parmesean ($10.99 per pound), specialty sides like sautéed broccoli rabe, and make-your-own salads round out the overstuffed menu.
For his part, Falcone is impressed.
“This is down-home, old-school, comfort food. It’s what you grew up with, and everything here transports you home, from the aromas to the atmosphere,” he says.
Capo Deli is located at 715 Florida Ave. NW. Hours are Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 a.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 a.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 a.m.
