The park in downtown Washington, D.C. named for John “Black Jack” Pershing tends not to do justice to the man who achieved the highest rank of any person ever to serve in the United States military. In 1919, in recognition of his remarkable career and service in the Great War, Congress elected to promote General Pershing to the rank of General of the Armies—a position created especially for him. These days his namesake park, located where 14th Street NW, meets Pennsylvania Avenue, attracts more than a smattering of visitors only during the winter months, when an ice rink is dropped in the middle of it.

A new restaurant in the Willard Hotel very well may change the fortunes of General Pershing’s park. Friday was press night at Café du Parc, (read this as full disclosure, please) and the self-described “new classic French bistro” has spared no expense in impressing the gathered gastronomes. The crowd arrived to a champagne welcome and legato accordion music played by Carmelo Pino, who, with a doctoral degree in music, has accompanied the likes of Luciano Pavarotti and Placido Domingo. Mr. Pino follows us into the dining room; his efforts throughout the evening prove once and for all that food tastes better when buttressed by live accordion music. “This is Café du Parc,” general manager Herve Houdre announced in his lilting French accent, “because of Pershing Park.” Throughout the evening, the staff of Café du Parc make repeated references to Pershing Park, and one imagines that from across the river in Arlington, General Pershing is smiling down at the three Michelin-starred chef from France who seems determined to turn his Park into a culinary destination.